I travel a lot for both business and pleasure and have the opportunity to eat in so many places; a kaleidoscope of experiences. One has to eat. Better at the most interesting places possible, whether they be simple or haute experience.
Of course, from a travel perspective, there was no comparative culinary experience to my time in Spain, mostly in the region around San Sebastian. The important chefs of the region have taken regional influences, the influence of classic french cuisine and the new innovations brought about by some of the great Spanish chefs to a new plateau of experiences. Simple regional products expressed in new ways that make the product stand on it's own, but with visual and taste highlights that allow these regional foods to reach our senses in such a novel, but well expressed manner, that the gustatory experience is truly unforgettable.
I have to mention simplicity at it's best, expressed by the small shop in New York called Porchetta, that mainly sells porchetta take away sandwiches that are perhaps just the best sandwich experience available, perhaps anywhere. The pork is so flavourful, tender and juicy, the meat stuffed with wonderful elements such as fennel pollen and the crackling included in the sandwich, nicely crispy, but not tough at all. The perfect bun for this, ciabatta.
Locally, Toronto and vicinity has it's own regional players. The Black Hoof.....out on a culinary and nutritional limb with such landmarks as cauliflower soup with bone marrow, lots of charcuterie, lots of what Jennifer Mclagan refers to as "good fats", a wonderful horse meat tartar open faced sandwich....the pure sweetness of the meat quite exceptional. Note Bene, chef David Lee's reduction of his former elevated cuisine to his version of wonderful bistro food, using such great products as his specially reserved 60 day dry aged, Cumbrae's prime beef to which he bastes the end product with the ashes of thyme and rosemary swirled in a balsamic vinegar and fruity olive oil blend. The "new" Splendido's chef Victor Barry does many wonderful executed versions of simple food elevated to a higher level of expression, such as his 60 day dry aged Cumbrae's rib steak, grilled and finished cooking sous vide over several hours, presented medium rare to rare, was perhaps my finest beef experience in Toronto this year!
And, for those of you not familiar with Indian haute cuisine, speak with the talented owner chef "P.K." at Dhaba restaurant to recreate some of the exceptional highlights of his regional cooking that are expressed differently than the regular menu selections at his restaurant. The chef/owner of the new Linda Thai restaurant in the new Don Mills shopping mall created a novel well executed expression of european influenced thai cuisine at a special event organized for one of the local culinary societies.
For a Japanese experience with Kaiseki cuisine and perhaps the truest local expression of this effort, one must journey to Hashimoto. I discussed my desires for an exceptional experience with the chef, and to be frank, with no cost budget as a guide, as I know from personal restaurant experiences at the highest level in Japan why the most interesting and extraordinary culinary experiences there are so costly. The chef was given a totally free hand to source fish and shellfish from anywhere and to create a true Japanese gastronomic experience. The result was expressed at a level I have only experienced in Japan. The fish and shellfish so exceptionally fresh and so beautifully presented with visually complementary tableware elements.
Finally, Chef Michael Stadtlander is back in the game with a restaurant design that expresses his personal taste and desires.......when you see it and appreciate the details, the design elements will take your breath away....even more so with a visit to their washrooms!!.....and then there is the food experience. Michael's personal philosophy and taste presented in such a moving and unique way and visually expressed on his personally handcrafted tableware. For me, being enveloped in chef Standtlander's visual and gustatory expression was a landmark for me in 2009.
These were the highlights of some of my personal culinary experiences for 2009. Wishing you all a healthy gustatory new year filled with culinary delights.
Friday, December 25, 2009
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
Bitten: The Nog-Off
Posted by Jennifer
‘Tis the season to drink eggnog. But which one? We sipped our way through national brands, a house brand, artisanal, and egg/milk-free varieties. Reading the ingredient list is a sobering exercise: most have at least two types of sugar; additives abound - carrageenan, guar gum, locust bean gum - all in the name of a
creamy texture. The quantity of sugar and the perception of sweetness were not always related.
The Nationals
Neilsen: The opinions on probably the most readily available eggnog varied widely. Though it has a very eggy yellow colour, the texture is thin. Indeed, the first ingredient listed is water. Some of us thought it had an overwhelming artificial rum flavour. One thought this was perfectly balanced and the one she would take to a party, since it would not need a last minute dusting of nutmeg or extra alcohol. For another, this was the taste of Christmas being her family’s preferred brand. $2.69/litre
Sealtest: This one is very custardy in both texture and colour. Some found it too sweet, forcing one of us to admit that she would not be able to drink a whole carton! There was no chemical taste but might need some doctoring with nutmeg and alcohol. $3.29/litre
Beatrice: Rich yellow in colour, Beatrice’s eggnog is not quite as sweet as the Sealtest nog while offering sufficient flavouring and great “mouth feel”. While tasters commented on the sweetness of the Sealtest eggnog, this one did not register as particularly sweet, despite its 34mg of sugar! We had to search a little harder for this one but it was worth it. Definitely one to take to a party. $2.79/litre
House Brands
We tried two President’s Choice eggnogs, one in a plastic bottle, the other in a carton.
The bottled product, ultra pasteurized, does not require refrigeration until just before serving, a plus at this time of year when storage space is at a premium. The first sip had an off-taste, but that disappeared quickly. This is one of the few nogs listing both cream and rum as ingredients. As expected when there is cream
present, the texture is very seductive, but the flavour is innocuous. $3.00/litre
The carton version is not quite as creamy, but tastes better than its bottled cousin. It claims there are no artificial flavours or colours. $1.99/litre
Artisan
Premium milk brand also offer premium eggnogs.
Harmony: Harmony’s version is, like its milk, sold in returnable glass bottles. Everything about it is lovely, especially its creaminess, both visually and on the palate. It is not too sweet. Some tasters thought it needed more flavour while others thought the balance of texture and taste perfect. This product has no ingredient list. $6.99/litre plus deposit at Whole Foods
Organic Meadow: This eggnog is sold in a carton. Who knew you could have organic additives? The milk and eggs here are also organic. Unless you really care about buying organic products, the difference in taste is
not worth double the price. It also seems quite sweet, although lower in sugar than the Beatrice version, and slightly less luxurious on the tongue. $5.99/litre at Whole Foods
The Vegan Alternative
So Nice Noel Nog: All we can say to vegans or those with health issues, who want to keep the Christmas eggnog tradition: move past it. There are no redeeming features to this drink. Well, it is high in calcium, but its watery texture and lingering, unpleasant taste is no treat for the mouth. Do not go there. $2.99/litre
‘Tis the season to drink eggnog. But which one? We sipped our way through national brands, a house brand, artisanal, and egg/milk-free varieties. Reading the ingredient list is a sobering exercise: most have at least two types of sugar; additives abound - carrageenan, guar gum, locust bean gum - all in the name of a
creamy texture. The quantity of sugar and the perception of sweetness were not always related.
The Nationals
Neilsen: The opinions on probably the most readily available eggnog varied widely. Though it has a very eggy yellow colour, the texture is thin. Indeed, the first ingredient listed is water. Some of us thought it had an overwhelming artificial rum flavour. One thought this was perfectly balanced and the one she would take to a party, since it would not need a last minute dusting of nutmeg or extra alcohol. For another, this was the taste of Christmas being her family’s preferred brand. $2.69/litre
Sealtest: This one is very custardy in both texture and colour. Some found it too sweet, forcing one of us to admit that she would not be able to drink a whole carton! There was no chemical taste but might need some doctoring with nutmeg and alcohol. $3.29/litre
Beatrice: Rich yellow in colour, Beatrice’s eggnog is not quite as sweet as the Sealtest nog while offering sufficient flavouring and great “mouth feel”. While tasters commented on the sweetness of the Sealtest eggnog, this one did not register as particularly sweet, despite its 34mg of sugar! We had to search a little harder for this one but it was worth it. Definitely one to take to a party. $2.79/litre
House Brands
We tried two President’s Choice eggnogs, one in a plastic bottle, the other in a carton.
The bottled product, ultra pasteurized, does not require refrigeration until just before serving, a plus at this time of year when storage space is at a premium. The first sip had an off-taste, but that disappeared quickly. This is one of the few nogs listing both cream and rum as ingredients. As expected when there is cream
present, the texture is very seductive, but the flavour is innocuous. $3.00/litre
The carton version is not quite as creamy, but tastes better than its bottled cousin. It claims there are no artificial flavours or colours. $1.99/litre
Artisan
Premium milk brand also offer premium eggnogs.
Harmony: Harmony’s version is, like its milk, sold in returnable glass bottles. Everything about it is lovely, especially its creaminess, both visually and on the palate. It is not too sweet. Some tasters thought it needed more flavour while others thought the balance of texture and taste perfect. This product has no ingredient list. $6.99/litre plus deposit at Whole Foods
Organic Meadow: This eggnog is sold in a carton. Who knew you could have organic additives? The milk and eggs here are also organic. Unless you really care about buying organic products, the difference in taste is
not worth double the price. It also seems quite sweet, although lower in sugar than the Beatrice version, and slightly less luxurious on the tongue. $5.99/litre at Whole Foods
The Vegan Alternative
So Nice Noel Nog: All we can say to vegans or those with health issues, who want to keep the Christmas eggnog tradition: move past it. There are no redeeming features to this drink. Well, it is high in calcium, but its watery texture and lingering, unpleasant taste is no treat for the mouth. Do not go there. $2.99/litre
Friday, December 11, 2009
Friday Lunch: Falafel House
Posted by Jennifer and Gina
Christmas is the time of year when we are so busy that it is a shock to remember at 4:00 pm that we have not yet had lunch. By then, what you actually eat is less important than just feeling full.
When full is what you are looking for, any one of the holes-in-the-wall selling falafel along Yonge Street, south of Bloor, has the solution. This time we choose Falafel House. We take the edge off our hunger with Bourekas. These avoid the usual problem of bitterness that the spinach/cheese filled triangular pastries frequently have. Instead the peppery stuffing is undermined by soggy pastry, somewhat redeemed by a crunchy sprinkle of sesame seeds. Though fairly standard, the falafel is less greasy than usual. The hot sauce on this is piquant rather than taste-bud numbing.
The moussaka daily special is a carb-lover’s heaven. Not only is there a generous side of saffron rice, there is potato, too, albeit rather dried out. From a choice of three salads, we choose a fresher than expected lemony chickpea salad. On the other hand, the cylindrical and surprisingly hollow baklava is stale.
Though perhaps a little fresher and less greasy, it is not the food that separates Falafel House from its neighbours. Instead, it is the warm service and a genuine effort to explain different dishes to new customers which makes it stand out from the dozens of similar establishments.
The total cost for food and tax: $15.63.
Christmas is the time of year when we are so busy that it is a shock to remember at 4:00 pm that we have not yet had lunch. By then, what you actually eat is less important than just feeling full.
When full is what you are looking for, any one of the holes-in-the-wall selling falafel along Yonge Street, south of Bloor, has the solution. This time we choose Falafel House. We take the edge off our hunger with Bourekas. These avoid the usual problem of bitterness that the spinach/cheese filled triangular pastries frequently have. Instead the peppery stuffing is undermined by soggy pastry, somewhat redeemed by a crunchy sprinkle of sesame seeds. Though fairly standard, the falafel is less greasy than usual. The hot sauce on this is piquant rather than taste-bud numbing.
The moussaka daily special is a carb-lover’s heaven. Not only is there a generous side of saffron rice, there is potato, too, albeit rather dried out. From a choice of three salads, we choose a fresher than expected lemony chickpea salad. On the other hand, the cylindrical and surprisingly hollow baklava is stale.
Though perhaps a little fresher and less greasy, it is not the food that separates Falafel House from its neighbours. Instead, it is the warm service and a genuine effort to explain different dishes to new customers which makes it stand out from the dozens of similar establishments.
The total cost for food and tax: $15.63.
Wednesday, December 9, 2009
The New Splendido, Two Wonderful Meals
Posted by Josh
Meal #1
I have had a number of truly fine meals at the new Splendido restaurant. It is highly flavourful bistro cuisine taken to an elevated level, but at reasonable prices. My meals there have been so enjoyable, I just wanted to share my enjoyment of the dishes with my many passionate food friends and acquaintances who are looking for this kind of experience.
I began with a first course of whole roasted suckling pig, which was done perfectly, topped with a nice piece of crackling and served with boudin noir, spiced sweet potato puree, roasted shallots and an intensely flavourful pork jus. If you love pork and if you love suckling pig, this dish will stand over the experience of many others.
Our next mini course was braised Rising Star venison served on a bed of gruyere de grote and thyme flavoured polenta.
Then, whole roasted chicken breast (Nathan’s Farm) with thigh confit, roasted autumn vegetables and roast chicken jus. Once more, if you love a very tasty chicken such as the haute poulet de bresse, you will certainly enjoy this chicken experience. It is not bresse chicken but it is an Ontario equivalent.
Finally, we made room for an addictive sticky toffee pudding which had my guest, who was "abstaining from carbs", after tasting, picking up the iron serving container and scooping the last bits from around the crevaces of the pot!!!
We decided we also had room for rum raisin ice cream with rice pudding, white chocolate and passion fruit, papaya, mango and pineapple topped with a bit of lime chili salt.
Meal #2
To begin, we started with hors d'oeuvres of pata negra (Spanish acorn fed ham), sweetbread tartlet, chef Victor’s "ham and cheese" and truffled elk tartar. Then, our first course of butter poached lobster came liberally coated with shaved white alba truffles and jerusalem artichoke purèe. This was a spectacular dish!
Our following course was chef Victor’s signature dish of foie gras "parfait" with a slice of toasted brioche, apple walnut cauliflower salad and vanilla apple purèe.
Then, one of the reasons for me visiting Splendido so often, more than a steak house, is chef Victor's cap de boeuf seared then cooked sous-vide. This is Cumbrae's beef at its best, aged 60 days and the cooking handled perfectly. This sous vide version is not typically on the menu and if you are looking to enjoy the dish, please request that the restaurant, when you make you reservation, have the chef prepare this dish for you and any guests wishing to try this wonderful beef experience. It was served with pine mushroom and parmigiano gnocchi and a thyme peppercorn jus.
Then, the chef served us a surprise indulgence, vacherin Mont d’Or in which slices of fresh black and white truffles were not only mixed into the cheese well in advance of our dinner, but also, when served, liberally topped with fresh molise black and white alba truffles. What an experience!!!
Our pre-dessert was a perfect complement for our Chateau Y'Quem 1962 , a lovely pumpkin soufflé served with hazelnut ice cream and hazelnut anglaise.
The final dessert, a spy apple tart with rum vanilla ice cream was served with a 5yr old El Dorado rum anglaise and that just finished us off!!!
Meal #1
I have had a number of truly fine meals at the new Splendido restaurant. It is highly flavourful bistro cuisine taken to an elevated level, but at reasonable prices. My meals there have been so enjoyable, I just wanted to share my enjoyment of the dishes with my many passionate food friends and acquaintances who are looking for this kind of experience.
I began with a first course of whole roasted suckling pig, which was done perfectly, topped with a nice piece of crackling and served with boudin noir, spiced sweet potato puree, roasted shallots and an intensely flavourful pork jus. If you love pork and if you love suckling pig, this dish will stand over the experience of many others.
Our next mini course was braised Rising Star venison served on a bed of gruyere de grote and thyme flavoured polenta.
Then, whole roasted chicken breast (Nathan’s Farm) with thigh confit, roasted autumn vegetables and roast chicken jus. Once more, if you love a very tasty chicken such as the haute poulet de bresse, you will certainly enjoy this chicken experience. It is not bresse chicken but it is an Ontario equivalent.
Finally, we made room for an addictive sticky toffee pudding which had my guest, who was "abstaining from carbs", after tasting, picking up the iron serving container and scooping the last bits from around the crevaces of the pot!!!
We decided we also had room for rum raisin ice cream with rice pudding, white chocolate and passion fruit, papaya, mango and pineapple topped with a bit of lime chili salt.
Meal #2
To begin, we started with hors d'oeuvres of pata negra (Spanish acorn fed ham), sweetbread tartlet, chef Victor’s "ham and cheese" and truffled elk tartar. Then, our first course of butter poached lobster came liberally coated with shaved white alba truffles and jerusalem artichoke purèe. This was a spectacular dish!
Our following course was chef Victor’s signature dish of foie gras "parfait" with a slice of toasted brioche, apple walnut cauliflower salad and vanilla apple purèe.
Then, one of the reasons for me visiting Splendido so often, more than a steak house, is chef Victor's cap de boeuf seared then cooked sous-vide. This is Cumbrae's beef at its best, aged 60 days and the cooking handled perfectly. This sous vide version is not typically on the menu and if you are looking to enjoy the dish, please request that the restaurant, when you make you reservation, have the chef prepare this dish for you and any guests wishing to try this wonderful beef experience. It was served with pine mushroom and parmigiano gnocchi and a thyme peppercorn jus.
Then, the chef served us a surprise indulgence, vacherin Mont d’Or in which slices of fresh black and white truffles were not only mixed into the cheese well in advance of our dinner, but also, when served, liberally topped with fresh molise black and white alba truffles. What an experience!!!
Our pre-dessert was a perfect complement for our Chateau Y'Quem 1962 , a lovely pumpkin soufflé served with hazelnut ice cream and hazelnut anglaise.
The final dessert, a spy apple tart with rum vanilla ice cream was served with a 5yr old El Dorado rum anglaise and that just finished us off!!!
Saturday, December 5, 2009
To Market, to market
Posted by Jennifer
The Green Barn, which looks so cavernous in the summer when the vendors are outside, seems so much smaller when jammed with stalls and shoppers once the market has moved inside for the colder months.
After missing Potato Lady (aka Marvellous Edibles) whose once-a-month appearance was mid-November, I am determined not to miss the Stoddarts and their duck eggs on the last Saturday of the month. I get there and so do they. Alas, they have no eggs at all -- just their beautiful wool.
This proves just a momentary setback when there are so many other attractions. With the Christmas baking season already underway, one wants eggs, eggs, and more eggs. I stock up from Everdale and Highmark Farm, where I also get purple broccoli. Webers also have eggs but this time I get sausage from them.
Woolerdale Farm has some of the most appealing vegetables. I resist the baby beets and rainbow of carrots but give in to Jerusalem artichokes, and several varieties of fingerling potatoes.
Who can resist a stop at St. John’s Bread? I have not seen their brioche before so I have to try it. Not overly buttery, and a little lopsided, it does have perfect brioche texture.
Since the Green Barn has a rotating group of vendors to accommodate farmers who are here just for the winter, I guess I will have to go every week!
The Green Barn, which looks so cavernous in the summer when the vendors are outside, seems so much smaller when jammed with stalls and shoppers once the market has moved inside for the colder months.
After missing Potato Lady (aka Marvellous Edibles) whose once-a-month appearance was mid-November, I am determined not to miss the Stoddarts and their duck eggs on the last Saturday of the month. I get there and so do they. Alas, they have no eggs at all -- just their beautiful wool.
This proves just a momentary setback when there are so many other attractions. With the Christmas baking season already underway, one wants eggs, eggs, and more eggs. I stock up from Everdale and Highmark Farm, where I also get purple broccoli. Webers also have eggs but this time I get sausage from them.
Woolerdale Farm has some of the most appealing vegetables. I resist the baby beets and rainbow of carrots but give in to Jerusalem artichokes, and several varieties of fingerling potatoes.
Who can resist a stop at St. John’s Bread? I have not seen their brioche before so I have to try it. Not overly buttery, and a little lopsided, it does have perfect brioche texture.
Since the Green Barn has a rotating group of vendors to accommodate farmers who are here just for the winter, I guess I will have to go every week!
Friday, December 4, 2009
Friday Lunch: Delica Kitchen
Posted by Jennifer
We go off to Delica Kitchen with high hopes and visions of the old Ace Bakery café dancing in our heads since its owner, Devin Connell is the daughter of Ace Bakery founders, Martin Connell and Linda Haynes. In fact, the opening of Delica coincides nicely with the autumn release of Devin and Linda's mother-daughter cookbook Two Dishes.
We try three sandwiches: Garden Party, Spicy Bird and The Classic. The first, a vegetarian offering, features white bean spread on a multigrain bread with avocado, pickled carrot, tomato, cucumber and arugula. The spicy bird is a sort of like chicken wings-on-a-bun with, chicken breast anointed with Franks Red Hot sauce, pickled carrot slaw, blue cheese aioli, and lettuce on a bianco roll. Thick double-smoked bacon with aged white cheddar on white Pullman bread comprises The Classic. The promised Delica tomato relish seems to be AWOL.
One of the things we really like about these sandwiches is that they are not enormously large. Too many sandwiches are huge, messy affairs that quickly fall apart. And, if you do manage to finish one, you feel
sluggish for the rest of the afternoon. These hold together well, not only physically but in taste as well. No particular element stands out -- it is just one balanced whole.
The same goes for the quinoa salad which one of us groaned at in anticipation of the ubiquitous lunchtime item. She quickly changed her mind after tasting it. Often overwhelmed by the acidity of vinegar or lemon, this quinoa with just a hint of lemon and a shower of herbs, cranberries, and almonds is very satisfying.
For us, each a confirmed sweet tooth, the highlight is the homemade oreo cookie. Though not quite as crisp as the manufactured version, the dark chocolate wafers have that indefinable oreo flavour, while a hit of salt cuts the sweetness in the soft slather of vanilla cream filling. No other homemade version of the icon cookie has gotten it so right.
Three sandwiches, one made a combo with the quinoa, plus three "oreos" cost us $31.58.
Photos by Gina
We go off to Delica Kitchen with high hopes and visions of the old Ace Bakery café dancing in our heads since its owner, Devin Connell is the daughter of Ace Bakery founders, Martin Connell and Linda Haynes. In fact, the opening of Delica coincides nicely with the autumn release of Devin and Linda's mother-daughter cookbook Two Dishes.
We try three sandwiches: Garden Party, Spicy Bird and The Classic. The first, a vegetarian offering, features white bean spread on a multigrain bread with avocado, pickled carrot, tomato, cucumber and arugula. The spicy bird is a sort of like chicken wings-on-a-bun with, chicken breast anointed with Franks Red Hot sauce, pickled carrot slaw, blue cheese aioli, and lettuce on a bianco roll. Thick double-smoked bacon with aged white cheddar on white Pullman bread comprises The Classic. The promised Delica tomato relish seems to be AWOL.
sluggish for the rest of the afternoon. These hold together well, not only physically but in taste as well. No particular element stands out -- it is just one balanced whole.
The same goes for the quinoa salad which one of us groaned at in anticipation of the ubiquitous lunchtime item. She quickly changed her mind after tasting it. Often overwhelmed by the acidity of vinegar or lemon, this quinoa with just a hint of lemon and a shower of herbs, cranberries, and almonds is very satisfying.
Three sandwiches, one made a combo with the quinoa, plus three "oreos" cost us $31.58.
Photos by Gina
Tuesday, December 1, 2009
Thomas Keller: A Study in Efficiency
Posted by Gina
Where were all of Toronto's chefs last night? Not in their individual kitchens sweating over the hob, but rather sitting elbow to elbow at the Toronto Reference Library. Chef Thomas Keller was on the premises in promotion of his new book Ad Hoc at Home, and was interviewed by our own Alison Fryer.
Tickets to the event included a signed copy of the new book, and with a sold out room, plus extra copies for sale at the event, Chef Keller managed to sign 700 books in an hour! And as would be expected from the man who turns raw produce into perfect works of gastronomic art, each signature was executed with with elegant penmanship and a beautiful calligraphy markers - no Sharpies for this chef!
Here are some pics of the signing in action. Enjoy!
Where were all of Toronto's chefs last night? Not in their individual kitchens sweating over the hob, but rather sitting elbow to elbow at the Toronto Reference Library. Chef Thomas Keller was on the premises in promotion of his new book Ad Hoc at Home, and was interviewed by our own Alison Fryer.
Tickets to the event included a signed copy of the new book, and with a sold out room, plus extra copies for sale at the event, Chef Keller managed to sign 700 books in an hour! And as would be expected from the man who turns raw produce into perfect works of gastronomic art, each signature was executed with with elegant penmanship and a beautiful calligraphy markers - no Sharpies for this chef!
Here are some pics of the signing in action. Enjoy!
Awaiting Keller
Signature Merry-Go-Round
Faster and Faster!
The signature.
[L-R] Alison, Thomas Keller & Jennifer
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