Wednesday, March 31, 2010

In New York at DBGB, Daniel Boulud's New Resto

Although the restaurant is very noisy one can easily hear your own surrounding conversation.

Frommage de tete, Gilles Verot's award winning chilled pig's head terrine was served pickled beets, cornichons and pickled onion. The texture and taste of the terrine was terrific but it was served a bit too cold so there was some loss of flavour.



Veal tongue, served with sauce gribiche, egg dressing, fingerling potatoes and capers. Such an earthy dish, the capers a perfect complement to the tongue.



Tablier de sapeur, lyonnaise style fried tripe with a vinegary mustard sauce and spicy tomato-tripe salad. Such an earthy dish, the capers a perfect complement to the tripe. However, although the breaded skin of the tripe was crispy, the tripe itself was rubbery in texture and hard to cut. Tripe and freshly pureed tomato go so well.




Boudin basque, blood and pigs head sausage, espelette pepper, scallion and mashed potatoes. A wonderful, mildly spicy, richly flavourful blood sausage had a creamy smooth texture and earthy flavours.
Toulouse sausage, pork, duck gizzard and garlic with cassoulet beans. Coarse textured and strongly flavoured with perfect textured long and slow cooked beans.




A dessert beer, a combination mostly of pausa cafe and  some "chicca" demi-sec barley wine made with coffee beans, topped off with brouwerij huyghe "fruli" strawberry wheat beer made with strawberry juice  was highly refreshing and paired remarkably well  with the  rhubarb tarte which was covered in a gooey marshmallow like meringue which complemented the rhubarb on the tarte so well. A mildly tart and very creamy rhubarb ice cream accompanied the tarte.



I then had the kalamansi  lime sorbet to further refresh my palate followed by "peanut butter and jelly chocolate cake", a layered cake of peanut butter biscuit, muscadel wine gelee and 3 layers of white grape jelly, chocolate mouse, flourless choc cake (deep dark chocolate flavour) and chocolate "crunchies" of sugar coated peanuts.

Monday, March 29, 2010

CHOCOLATE BAR OF THE WEEK

Soma's Chocolate Exploration Box features four of their artisanal chocolates, created right from the beans, in their Distillery district shop.
Cocoa Latte 60%; Green Tangerine 65%; Dark Fire 66%; Black Science Dominican Republic 70%; all are sophisticated chocolate to slowly savor, not to pop into the mouth and forget.

Cocoa Latte, a milk chocolate is rich, smooth, lower in sugar and higher in cocoa than most other milk chocolates. Green combines a subtle orange essence with dark chocolate, again less sweet than many fruity chocolates. Dark Fire delivers a hit of cinnamon at the front of the mouth before setting the sides and back of the tongue aflame with ginger and chili. Finally, Black Science, from organic Fairtrade cacao from the Dominican Republic, offers a bouquet of flavors. The wrapper claims dried fruit, cranberries and tobacco. Along with the dried fruit/Christmas pudding taste, we sense caramel, and scorched soil. The latter is more a feeling on the tongue than a flavour. The four very different chocolates provide a feast for the mind and the palate.
Price: $20 for 120 grams. Note: Although it is called an exploratin "box" the individually wrapped squares are rolled exquisitely in a bamboo mat.

Friday Lunch at Frangipane

Every neighbourhood should have a shop like Frangipane, dispensing pleasure by the mouthful. Most of the mouthfuls at Frangipane are sweet - lovely fruit tarts, chocolates, iced lemon shortbread.

This shop does understand that there are those who think they cannot live by sugar alone so offers a couple of savory tarts. We make them the foundation of our lunch. One is a plain gruyere tart, the other is onion, prosciutto and gruyere. They are sold in heavy paper molds which facilitate transportation. Both have soggy crusts which would normally be a negative. Here it seems as though the pastry has melted into the custardy filling, creating an unctuous whole that satisfies the need to experience both taste and "mouth feel" as you consume. The onion in the second tart adds more texture but the prosciutto is largely absent.

Then it is on to cookies. Swedish oatmeal is a slightly lacey version of the oatmeal cookie, one that would wed beautifully with a glass of cold milk. Whoever made the lavender shortbread was heavy handed with the lavender ceating a cookie that gives all the pleasure of biting into a bar of soap. This sensation disappears quickly as we turn to the cherry frangipane Basque tart. Rather than the usual pastry cream (with or without cherry preserves) this version has a frangipane (almond cream) filling with cherries. The pastry hits all the correct Basque tart notes: rich, crumbly, and slightly crunchy with sugar.

If Frangipane is in your neighbourhood, you are lucky.

Price for three tarts and three cookies: $17.64

Monday, March 22, 2010

CHOCOLATE BAR OF THE WEEK

Mo's Bacon Bar
With people such as the Dubys and Heston Blumenthal blurring the line between sweet and savoury, a bacon chocolate bar was almost inevitable.

From Vosges Haut-Chocolat, Mo's Bacon Bar features applewood smoked bacon and alderwood smoked salt embedded in milk chocolate. The first revelation to his us when biting into this bar is the milk chocolate. This is not your average cloying sweet milk chocolate. In fact, it is hard to believe it is not semi-or bittersweet. The combined smokiness of the salt and bacon gives added depth of flavour, with the saltiness serving to offset what sugar content there is.

Alas, the texture lacks the impact delivered by the flavour. Rather than crispness and crunch - expectations raised by Lindt's fleur de sel bar - the bacon bits are chewy, and the salt AWOL in terms of texture. Not only that but the bacon seems to stay in the mouth long after the chocolate is gone.

Still, what might have been just strange is, in fact, a fine combination. But then the bacon/sweet fusion has long been a feature in cookbooks from the American South. It is a reminder that everything old is new again.
$9.99 at McEwan

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Irish Alison's Farewell

It's only appropriate that we post Irish Alison's farewell culinary thoughts on Toronto on St. Patrick's Day. As she boards the plane home today to Sligo we remember the day, one year ago, she walked in to the store looking for a job. We weren't really hiring but her enthusiasm and of course the accent did us in and Jennifer and I along with our customers have had a wonderful year with Irish Alison on staff. 
Irish Alison's Toronto Adventure
The first two weeks of my being in Toronto have one abiding food memory for me, and not a very pleasant one. Being broke and hungry will make a girl do (and eat) things she mightn’t otherwise consider, and I am no exception. I don’t know if I will ever be rid of the memory of the complimentary pancake breakfast offered by my hostel, I certainly won’t be rid of it anytime soon. Every morning, between the hours of 7 and 10am, the long suffering desk clerk would make up pitcher after pitcher of lumpy instant pancake mix, which lost souls on tight budgets like myself would drown in Aunt Jemima’s generic ‘syrup’ and eat in large quantities to see ourselves through to a late lunch. Often said lunch would be comprised of a packet of Mr Noodles, rehydrated in a communal kitchen of dubious hygiene levels. (Beef or chicken being the flavours of choice. Oriental tastes like nothing in particular, and the least said of vegetable the better.)  When we moved to an actual apartment my boyfriend and I thought, of course, that things were set to improve on the culinary front. There are few better cures for loneliness than the comfort and refuge of the kitchen, and some home cooking can do wonders for homesickness. Unfortunately the kitchen in our month long sub-let proved to be unusable and so we had to look for alternatives. At the time this seemed like an absolute tragedy – I ached for real cooking, to make something from my own hand, for the sense of control which I could feel with a knife and a chopping board. If I add onion to oil I know what the outcome will be – moving 3,000 miles away from family and friends to a city we’d never even visited before, where we didn’t know anyone and had no immediate job prospects, was a much foggier forecast. Now I know what a great benefit it was to be motivated to go out and try all that this great city has to offer, because when it comes to food, Toronto is hard to beat. At that point all we had was a meagre budget and a big appetite, and we learned how to stretch our dollar as far as it could go.
We ate late night $4.99 burgers and fries at Future’s on Bloor, surrounded by gabbing Annex locals and students with the kinds of manic looks that only assignment deadlines can cause. Their end of day pastries, usually at two for one, or a bag for a dollar, made for pre bedtime snacking. Their breakfast was good too, but for a greasy spoon wake up, my heart will always belong to Sneaky Dees $3.25 breakfast special. And then, there was Tim Horton’s. I am still inordinately fond of Tim’s; partly because it helped to keep us alive in those tough early days, and partly because it became a familiar and constant feature when everything else was new. A maple cream donut (my treat of choice) was an occasional breakfast and long bus ride companion.
Of course, once we had some income and a new apartment we could actually cook in, eating out became an activity more about pleasure than survival, and the location became less about the most food for the lowest price, and more about new and exciting tastes and discoveries. We have spent much of the year intoxicated by the choice of cuisine available in Toronto; coming from small town Ireland gives you limited exposure to ethnic foods, no matter how curious you are. We’ve had Korean pork bone stew so spicy my eyes watered the entire time I ate at Ka Chi (totally worth the tears by the way), Persian lamb shanks that melted unctuously from the bone at the Pomegranate, we mopped up split peas and lentils with injera at Ethiopian House, had a lunch of curried goat and jerk chicken at Ackee Tree, slurped pho from Chinatown, and enjoyed tacos in the sunshine at El Trompo in Kensington market. We tried sushi for the first time (seriously, there are like 2 sushi restaurants in Dublin. That’s it). I celebrated my birthday watching Mexican cable tv and eating chicken mole at Mexitaco.
We also learned a lot about Canadian food – for instance, gravy and cheese on fries. Seriously, we thought, Poutine sounds gross. Oh we of little faith. We tried pulled pork sandwiches for the first time, and second, and third. The Victory Cafe fed us cheap, good pub food on many a night when the lure of mac and cheese and a pint of Ontario craft brew drew us out of doors. Our culinary adventures ran the range of 4am fried white bread and plastic cheese in Mars Foods on a Saturday night, to the briny beauty of a kalamata olive and meltingly tender rabbit ragu in Tutti Matti. We ate the Elvis special burger (peanut butter and banana on a beef patty, in case you’re interested) on recycled recliner chairs at Dangerous Dan’s (view of Jilly's is complimentary), did  the summerlicious menu at Pangaea, and ate warm, gelatinous bone marrow sprinkled with Maldon salt at the Black Hoof. Jump offered the best service in the city (thanks Vera!), and the lobster roll at Petite Thuet proved that it was possible to have a take away sandwich worth a $9 price tag. And where do I begin with brunch? It’s a subject always likely to provoke heated debate so it’s best to just go with personal preference. Mine is Aunties and Uncles, my boyfriend loves Mitzi’s. We will probably never agree on this point, so there is no sense in arguing further. (Although I do think I’m right).  That being said, suckling pig benny and pig tails and grits at the Hoof Cafe were declared exquisite by both of us, so perhaps there’s hope for a peaceful Sunday morning yet.
And there are also places which claim my affections for reasons beyond simply the food they serve.  About 3 weeks into our coming here I was homesick, the city was cold, we were sub-letting in a squat that made places of habitation featured on CNN seem cosy, and I was miserable. Completely by accident we stumbled upon Wanda’s Pie in the Sky. It was warm, there were smiles of welcome. A spicy African peanut soup and a cheddar and chutney sandwich tasted like heaven; the slices of apple were tart and crisp, and none of the vegetables had been reconstituted with the aid of a kettle. I ate my first slice of cherry pie – each little fairytale-red berry bursting with juice and flavour. It was food for the soul, food to make you pick yourself up and start again, almost the only thing which stood between me staying to tough it out in a strange city and hailing a taxi to Pearson.
And how glad I am that I did stick it out. I have made great friends, and had so many experiences I never thought imaginable. And most importantly, I have eaten better and more diversely in one year than i ever had before. And for those of us food obsessed and perpetually hungry, that is worth almost anything.

Saturday, March 13, 2010

A Recent Meal At The Gilead Cafe

Ham croquette with acidulated shallot vinaigrette. Crunchy panko crust filled with savory cubed ham and mashed potato filling. The sharp shallot flavour and the vinaigrette flatter the flavours of the filling.






Braised bean, tripe and spicy tomato sauce with a topping crust of panko.





Brioche toast with soubise (onion sauce) and mushrooms.

Lentil and beet salad with a mustard and intense chopped dill flavoured dressing.



Pec nord scallops on bed of mashed potatoes gratin. 





Socca flavoured with cumin with sweet potatoes and bok choy (the bitter and the sweet).


Cumbrae farms "butcher's dish" with medium rare hanger steak, beef tendon and pea sprouts all in a full flavoured beef broth, served with bone marrow on toasts



Ginger spice cake with sweet preserved cherries.

Friday, March 12, 2010

Cava's Paella VQA Wine Pairing Event

A crowd of enthusiastic wine industry people and passionate foodies gathered for this evening of Spanish cuisine created and prepared by the very talented chefs Christopher Macdonald and Doug Penfold at Cava Restaurant. I will not speak about the wines as many wine writers attended this event and will report about the evening.

We began with "tapas": a single mussel covered with a salsa of chopped, wild pickled leeks, oven roasted tomato, hominy corn, mint and olive oil. A wonderful combination of textures and flavours that  complemented the mussel; a combination of chicken liver mousse and tripe with arbol chilies, the smokey, spicey flavours combining so well with the rich liver; crispy, crunchy deep fried smelts with an herbal mayonnaise dipping sauce; nutty flavoured, delicate, very thinly sliced La Quercia green label organic ham.










Our main course, paella, was made with snails, pulled roasted duck, sliced chorizo, saffron, orange zest, garlic and bomba rice. This was great Spanish comfort food. Very moist with a terrific combination of flavours: the smokey chorizo, earthy snails, rich tasting duck meat, the bright contrast of the orange zest giving dimension to the layered flavours and the wonderful background flavour of saffron.




A slice of manchego cheese, a wedge of mildly tarte membrillo (quince paste) and mini rolls refreshed my palate.



Dessert was pistachio nougate served on a semi-freddo of seville orange cubes and candied orange zest, all surrounded by Mexican porcelana chocolate(one of the world's highest quality) sauce. This wonderful dark chocolate mellowed the bitter aspect of the seville orange and well complemented the pistachio nougate. I wanted to lick my plate!
 

Thursday, March 4, 2010

Bitten: Rotisserie Chicken Part Two - Gourmet Grocers

Universally popular, rotisserie chicken is also a feature of the upscale food emporia. Can the $7.99 bird from Rabba ever hope to hold its own against a costlier one from McEwan, Pusateri's or Whole Foods Market?

McEWAN - $13.99
Packaging: The ugiquitous covered plastic tray was larger than usual but not because the chicken was any bigger than standard. Storage temperature warnings. No juice in the tray.

Appearance: A shower of herbs gave a jolt of colour to the pale golden skin. Looked plump and moist.

Flavour: Despite the sprinkle of herbs on the outside and the bunch of thyme in its cavity, the chicken tasted only slightly of herbs. Though it had cooled somewhat before we tasted it, the flesh had not dried out.

Overall Impression: While herbs perked up the appearance of this chicken, they did not lift it above average in terms of tate. Wehn you are paying a premium price for a rotisserie chicken you not only want a pretty bird, you expect exceptional flavour.

PUSATERI'S - $8.99
Packaging: Plastic tray and cover in which a small amount of liquied had accumulated.

Appearance: This chicken owed all its colou to a rub. Judging by the hue, it was heavy on paprika. both breast and lega seemed a little scrawny.

Flavour: The dry meat betrayed very little taste - either seasoning or inherent chicken.

Overall Impression: We wanted to see some colour from the cooking process not just from a rub. It just seemed small and unloved. At least it wasn't overpriced.

WHOLE FOODS MARKET -$11.99
Packaging: Plastic tray and cover in which a small amount of liquid had accumulated.

Appearance: A plum bird, it was a lovely burnished brown without being burnt.

Flavour: We had thought we were picking a plain chicken but when we looked at the label later, it said "Lemon". What we actually tasted seemed more like tarragon.Whichever, it was delicious and the dtectable herbal taste did not overwhelm the innate flavour of the juicy meat.

Overall Impression: Second most expensive, this was certainly the most attractive and tasty. Though the chickens Whole Foods uses are not labeled organic they are antibiotic and hormone-free, raised on a vegetarian diet and are not caged. With its appeal to many sense, this chicken was definitely worth the price.

ROTISSERIE CHICKEN -  THE VERDICT!
1. Whole Foods Market
2. McEwan
   & Rabba   TIED
4. Valumart
5. Sobey's
6. Pusateri's

Though some were better than others, none of these birds were unacceptable. In some cases we got more than we paid for - the least expensive one tied for second with the most expensive. If money is an object, rest assured the $7.99 Rabba chicken is just fine. Some shops such as Whole Foods have them on special during the week.

The one thing missing from all these birds: crispy skin. Whether packed in a covered plastic tray or foil-lined bag, a hot bird will steam. While the plastic containers may appeal visually they are more difficult to transport than a bag, create a pile of garbage, and seem to create more steam than a bag.

Tuesday, March 2, 2010

ROSE GRAY, founder & chef of River Cafe in London, and cookbook author, dead at 71

I asked Deborah (Reid) a former employee here at The Cookbook Store to give us her thoughts on her time at the fabled River Cafe. Deborah is currently an instructor at George Brown Chef School


I was a stagiaire in the kitchen at the River Cafe for 5 weeks in May and June of 2000. At that time I was sous chef in a restaurant in southwestern Ontario and my travel and study was sponsored by the restaurant I worked for in Canada. I was beside myself to be there - had harboured the dream since the first time I laid my hands on the Blue Book. Worked and learned from such great, enthusiastic and inspiring people - Theo, Arthur, Gary, April, Peter... Spent a brief morning service with Ruth and Rose preparing Vignole - they were on the cusp of releasing the Green Book and were very busy. They were kind and generous and I was over the moon. The quality of the ingredients was breathtaking and they were masterful at culling those qualities. The cooking had clear flavours and was gutsy and vibrant in a way that was just so sensual. I consider myself richer for that experience. Although brief, it helped to shape my cooking and career. May her family and friends find comfort in knowing what she meant to so many people and may she rest in peace.