Friday Lunch at Sky Blue Sky Sandwich Company Ltd.

Shortly before she left us to return to Ireland, our co-worker, Alison Gorman,(aka Little Irish Alison) discovered a sandwich shop at the top of her street.  Its name and the names of the sandwiches on offer were inspired by one of her favorite bands, the Chicago-based indie group, Wilco(www.wilcoworld.net/). So this one is for you, Alison!

As usual, we were a little slow off the mark to go in search of lunch, arriving after the shop had run out of bread. The good news was that there would be bread fresh from the oven in 20 minutes.  We waited.  Our lunch started with Senegalese peanut soup.  Seldom seen on  menus around town,  this soup  usually features a smooth peanut-laced base, often flecked with tomatoes, cilantro,sometimes sweet potato and greens, with a kick of cayenne or curry. Instead of the richly smooth potion we expected, we found a watery stew that was more like a chalky lentil soup.  Whatever peanut flavor it might have had was completely overwhelmed by curry.

The roast beef sandwich --Dreamer in My Dreams on the menu--arrived on the fresh-from-the-oven bread. It had a nice homemade squishiness to it but with enough body to contain the filling. Along with slices of beef, the sandwich features caramelized onions and "sharp" cheddar.  It is true the onions were cooked but they were not caramelized.  The cheese was not sharp, adding nothing to the sandwich. Though cooked past rare, the beef , however, was still moist and tasty.

We also tried a vegetarian selection,Via Chicago. Curry worked well here with the pureed chick pea, roasted onion, and tomato filling.  A dollop of mango chutney added extra zip.  A little messy,  this was an inspired combination which would probably be even better on a multigrain bread.

Another time we would probably give the soup a miss but sample more of the sandwiches, arriving in time to  try other breads.  Though still a little amateurish, this crew, admirably, makes everything on site.

Price: $12.75

Friday Lunch (and more!) at Smokin' Bones

Good news, all you students around Dundas East and Church.  There is an alternative to noodles, noodles, and more noodles. Billed as southern comfort food, Smokin’ Bones menu specializes in ribs, fried chicken, and sandwiches.

Despite both a chilly walk of a few blocks and a subway ride, when we finally tuck into the fries, they are still crispy. The colour may be a little pale, the flavour muted, but the texture is right on. They set the tone for the whole meal.  Everything that should be crunchy is, but the cook needs a heavier hand with seasoning in some dishes. Josh's group tried the sweet potato fries which also arrived nicely crunchy.

 Another case in point is the piece of fried chicken, half of a chicken/rib combo. The batter is gossamer, nicely coating the meat, but cries out for salt, perhaps cayenne for tang, and a few herbs.  The chicken itself is perfectly cooked within the golden batter. The texture is not so spot on with the rib part of the combo.  We would have preferred stickiness to the clumpy rub but the meat is tender.

Josh went with a bunch of foodie friends (Molloy, Kimel, Kosoy, Levy, Bersani), including a chef and two former high end resto owners. Their take on the fried chicken was that the texture of the crust was crispy and good but it was way too oversalted, so clearly there is some inconsistency here. And, as for the ribs, they were perfectly cooked as a bight did not make the meat fall off the bone, but it did come away easily. Also, although the smokey flavour and sauce were good, the taste of the dry rub was a bit too prevalent. The bbq sauce itself, served on the side, was a little too pasty and thick as can be seen in the picture but the flavour was ok, not exceptional.

We also tried the brisket a standby of many famous bbq joints down south. But, this brisket was tasteless and the texture unpleasant. Also, it lacked the flavour of any smoke which we expected based on our southern experience. So we suggest skipping the brisket entirely.

So often restaurant coleslaw is over-processed, producing a soupy mush of mayo diluted with too much moisture from the cabbage.  Not so here.  The dressing clings to the veggies but again needs more seasoning while avoiding the common mistake of too much vinegar.

The hit here is the pulled pork sandwich which both tasting groups were in complete agreement.  Though the bun, initially, seems too soft, it is just right.  The puffy centre melds with the moist strings of smokey, sweet/spicy pork, but the crust is strong enough to contain the juicy filling. Josh felt that this could be the best tasting pulled pork sandwich in Toronto.

Josh's group also tried the andouille sausage. It's coarse texture and excellent spiced flavour (but not hot spicey) made this sausage, in their opinion, one of the best tasting sausages in the city.

Being in the mood to try everything, Josh's group also tried the meat loaf sandwich. The meat loaf had a delightful coarse texture and yet was soft enough to easily crumble with a bight. The house made bbq sauce was a flavourful touch. Some meat loafs are so firm that one needs a knife to cut them. The flavour of this meat loaf was very good, the vegetables and spices held their own with the meat flavour.

We then decided to try the jambalaya and chili, despite the fact that our group origionally came for the bbq. The chili was very flavourful and had a good consistency but lacked the classic spicey qualities one comes to expect from a classic chili. the jumbalaya was flavourful with the taste of the bbq'd pork and the andouille sausage but the rice consistency was a negative on the overall experience and was mushy and overcooked.

Alas, due to a non-functioning oven, the pie promised on the menu is unavailable.  We will be back to try the pie --and to have another pulled pork sandwich. Josh's group will be back for the pulled pork sandwich, the sausage and the meat loaf sandwich. The vaunted bbq beans were not available for them. As for the pie.....well, they are on a diet!!

Price for a combo, pulled pork sandwich, and two sides:  $23.74

Malena, A Hot New Toronto Resto!

Walking into Malena one feels welcomed by a warm and comfortable room, one that has a sophisticated rustic charm with upscale contemporary elements.

Glancing at the menu I was captivated by the ambitious course descriptions, a mouthwatering take on mediterranean cuisine. So, I began to graze. Beginning with Qualicum bay scallops crudo accompanied by paper thin slices of celery heart and fennel, dressed with chili orange vinaigrette, I tempered my initial cravings. The sweet tasting scallop went well with the raw fennel and fragrant orange vinaigette.

Sardines in scapece followed,  a cevice style rendition of this fish, topped with julienned romaine, crispy pancetta and roasted garlic crema.

With the meal we enjoyed a Marchese Antinori 2004 Cervaro, Castello Della Sala which was slightly caramelized but had a very nice balance and tropical fruit taste.

Sensational sea urchin crostini with avocado crema, amaranth seedlings, a touch of lemon juice and black salt just amazed my eyes and palate! This was the  taste of the sea on toast!! This course is certainly one of the great dishes of our city and better than any renditions that I have tried at the various New York restos offering this dish.

Next, lamb and date polpette (meatballs) came with a quite spicy preserved lemon and pimento pesto. The intense taste of the preserved lemon and the spicyness of each of the 2 sauces overwhelmed the very good flavour of the lamb. Further, the pimento pesto did nothing to enhance the flavour of the lamb. This was one of only two minor missteps made by the kitchen.

Smoked cod cheek cakes with horta (in Greece this would be wild bitter greens), shallots and lemon cream were fabulous, the flavours of fennel, the intense lemon cream, mild red onion and bitter greens setting off so well, the smokey halibut cheeks.

Fritto misto of shrimp, black cod and squid with a quite spicy red pepper conserva was our next course. The batter was not crispy enough and was a bit oily, the only other kitchen misstep.

Delicate bufala ricotta filled ravioli came with thinly shaved fennel, fennel fronds and orange brown butter. This dish impressed my partner and was very well prepared with a delicate, nicely al dente pasta and carefully selected ingredients.

Perfectly grilled porgy came with three condiments, a lovely intense lemon marmellata, mild cucumber tzatziki and an obtrusive olive tapenade.

At last, we were served a very light lemon phyllo tart with a wonderfully thin crispy shell, a side of lemon semifreddo, with candied lemon and a very light marshmallow meringue. This was a sensational dessert to finish the meal.

But of course, after some coaxing, we then had to try the crunchy Greek honey accented loukoumades (fried pastry) with Attiki honey (which I always bring back from Greece, one of my very favourite honeys), pistachios and a wonderful cinnamon crema for dipping the loukoumades....overkill but, another hit.

Get to this restaurant soon before the crowds find out about it......Malena will be a major Toronto hit!

Lunch With Angelo Gaja at Coppi Restaurant

Angelo Gaja is considered perhaps one of the greatest wine makers in Italy. Certainly he is pre-eminent. He is also considered one of the great winemakers of the world. Mr. Gaja was back in Toronto for the first time in 18 years and I was privileged to be included in a small private luncheon, hosted by Halperin Imports at Coppi Restaurant, that featured 20 bottles of different Gaja wines of different vintages. The Coppi chef created a wonderful lunch that went so well with the wines, creating dishes that I have never experienced at Coppi. He should keep some of those new dishes on his menu!!


We began with champagne enjoyed with spuntini of citrus cured sea bream crostini with arugula, lobster salad on endive with dried fruits, a very tasty crostini of fava bean puree with pecorino and mint and a wonderful rabbit terrine with raisin and toasted pistachio (which i could not get enough of) on a cucumber base.

Antipasti followed: beef carpaccio with shaved parmesan, yellow fin ahi tuna crudo with basil flavoured olive oil and scallion and a very good house made bresaola with fire roasted red peppers. We enjoyed a Brunello Rennina 2000, Incredibly forward fruit on the nose and palate, mildly tannic, very jammy and very balanced with a long finish. A wonderful wine with this dish.

The first main ("primo") was a fantastic plate of raviolone stuffed with braised beef cheek and porcini mushroom, finished with a chestnut, sun dried cranberry demi-glace and a perfectly cooked slow roasted marrow bone. Many of us asked for more marrow bones and the demi-glace that went with it!! A '93 Sperss was served. This wine was from a difficult vintage. It had a big middle and an adequate finish, was quite tannic, not well balanced, and had a modest fruit nose. We also enjoyed a '95 Sperss. This was a big wine, tannic, well balanced, with a long finish and ample fruit on the palate . This is a wine which will continue to develop, and is still very young. This wine went very well with the richness of the marrow and beef cheeks.

The next main ("secondo") was a very good brome lake duck breast with a compote of prune and grape with a blackberry reduction. We enjoyed an opulent '97 Sori San Lorenzo and a very good '95 Sori San Lorenzo. The '97 is a spectacular vintage, but, both of these wines are much too young to be enjoyed now and the '95 seemed quite closed.

An excellent refreshing intermezzo followed of basil and olive oil flavoured raspberry sorbet. What an interesting and perfect combination of flavours for this meal!



The 3rd course was a free range shank of Apsley Farm lamb served on top of truffled polenta and cippolini agro dolce. This was a dish of great flavours but the lamb was a touch dry. We enjoyed Conteisa '97 and '95 Barbaresco, both a bit young but nicely matched to the earthy flavoured lamb.

The chef at Coppi did justice to this major Italian winemaker. A memorable wine tasting and meal.

CHOCOLATE BAR OF THE WEEK

Dolfin Chocolat Noir 70% Cacao

Some chocolate bars make a first great impression whether from an intense whiff of cocoa as the wrapper is removed, or from the flavor on the first bite. Belgian - made Dolfin offered little initial impact.

However, just as the chocolate slides down the throat, floral and fruity - epsecially orange - flavours burst forth.
Although it is a 70% cocoa bar, it seems less bitter than some other dark chcolates. While the snap is consistent with a high-end product the interior is rather rough and pale, the exterior not so shiny.

With its subtlety, we would not use Dolfin in baking. It would, however, be perfect dessert chocolate, a companion for tea, coffee, brandy or a fortified wine at the end of a meal.
Price: $5.95 at Dinah's Cupboard

Toronto, Brunch at the Black Hoof Cafe, A New Fave!

The Black Hoof Cafe is a recent endeavour by the Black Hoof Restaurant's co-owners chef Grant van Gameren and Jenn Agg.

When I arrived, I immediately glanced at the menu written on the blackboard and knew that I was in my own food heaven. Hearty food for the serious trencherman. I was here for the morning brunch served after 10am from Thursday to Monday.

I began with a fried egg with a seasonally fresh spring leak, the stem grilled and the raw leaves placed under the egg. Two thin slices of ham were on the side with some honey mustard and toasts.

Next, richly flavoured pig tail meat and grits (polenta) were served with a poached egg, thin crisps of dehydrated, deep fried corn meal wafer, some grilled scallion and all doused with a mildy spicy "hot sauce". A terrific dish on it's own.

Now, one of my 2 favourites at the Cafe, suckling pig benny. This was eggs benedict  with crackling, a poached egg placed on the fabulously tasty pulled suckling pig, on a cheddar biscuit and all covered with a well made complementary hollandaise sauce. Young arugula leaves doused with a vinaigrette were on the side and worked well between bights to help clear the palate between rich bights of egg, pig and hollandaise. 

Then, we were served one side of a split long marrow bone with some large crystal salt on the side. This presentation made it very easy to scoop out the delicious marrow and mound it on our provided toast.

And last....I know, I do go on....but, the selections were so appetizing to my brunch date and I....how could we resist ordering more?? So we devoured the other of my 2 favourite dishes at the Cafe, the exceptional blood sausage served with pancakes, ground walnuts, a date /honey reduction, a scattering of house made ricotta cheese and dates. What an amazing combination of textures and tastes. The cheese went surprisingly well with the blood sausage. In my opinion, this blood sausage, along with chef David Lee's, at Note Bene, are the best blood sausages served at any restaurant in Toronto! A rich complex flavour and creamy texture.

Hopefully, when you go, there will not be a line up as there are no reservations taken...but, the meal is well worth the wait!!

Bill's Bar and Burger, New York

Checked out another vaunted New York burger joint. Another  resto that uses a Pat Lafrieda (the well known New York butcher) beef mix. The burger arrived medium to well and I requested medium rare. The Burger had too much cap fat in the mixture and too much gristle. It was flavourful though. Not a fave!

Colicchio And Sons, New York

Colicchio and Sons is the hot new spot from well know New York chef, Tom Colicchio, owner chef of restaurants Craft and Craftsteak. He is also head judge on the tv show Top Chef, so my expectations were high.

I began with celery root panacotta with lobster salad and black truffle vinaigrette, which was more like a gastrique. The flavourful panacotta was a wonderful textural complement for the lobster.

Next, butter poached oysters, barely cooked (i loved the creamy aspect of the oysters) was presented a with fine julienne of celery root emulating tagliatelle pasta and topped with American hackleback caviar for seasoning.

My following course was ravioli filled with ricotta, morels and topped with fava leaves and fava beans.
The flavours of the new season morels  and the fava beans went so well together and with the ricotta filling of the pasta. However, the pasta layers could have been thinner and more delicate, and to me, the pasta was harder to the bight than al dente.

Finally, I very much enjoyed the farm chicken pot au feu, very moist, tender slices of chicken breast with a sheet of crispy skin and a paltry 2 small pieces of thick cut black truffles, carrot batons, cabbage, salsify, fois gras ravioi and a small lobe of poached fois gras.Then, an intensely flavoured chicken broth was added. The fat of the fois gras went well with the relatively fat free chicken breast.

So, was this meal up to Mr. Colicchio's top chef expectations? I would have to say no. Each dish was good, but no dish really "sang" to me.

In New York At Marea Restaurant

I began with ricci, simply sea urchin, topped with lardo and sea salt. The creamy urchin roe, fragrant with the smell of the sea, a mild iodine aroma, went so well together with the fat of the lardo.

The next dish was a crudo of fluke on a bed of a thin slice of lemon on a disk of cucumber, topped with a bit of thyme and Ligurian olive oil.

The following course was a very rich fusilli pasta with a sauce of tomato and bone marrow, with wine braised octopus. A wonderfully satisfying dish.

Dessert followed, layers of dark chocolate icing, dark chocolate ganache, pistachio cake, with sugar coated pistachios, pistachio ice cream and some yuzu compote.

In New York At Locande Verde Restaurant

Locande Verde is chef Andrew Carmellini's new venue. When I arrived 15 minutes early for my hard to get reservation, at 6:30pm, the restaurant was totally packed!! I had wait for my table to clear. The restaurant was completely booked that night, till the end of service. It tends to book up about 2 weeks ahead so be careful to plan well ahead for this reservation.

I began with fritto misto of rock shrimp and Ipswich clams. The elements were a bit too greasy and some of the clams very gritty with sand. However, the dish was accompanied by very well prepared, tasty, roasted shishito peppers.

My following course was tender tripe in a very good tomato sauce containing celery, green and red peppers and carrots. The sauce was flavoured with basil leaves and topped with panko, parmigiana and an organic farm egg. This was a very good, hearty dish that any farmer and I would love for breakfast!!

Next, i enjoyed a porchetta sandwich with grilled onions (requested no cheese) and crackling on the side. Terrifically tender and juicy with a spicy tomato sauce on the bread, very satisfying...but the restaurant Porchetta in NY, is still by far the absolute "king" of the porchetta sandwich. And, the crackling served in the sandwich at Porchetta restaurant is peerless.

My following course was 1\2 of fire roasted, garlic chicken. This dish announced itself about 15 feet from my table. Redolent with the bouquet of roasted garlic and the aroma from the wood burning oven, it was irresistable!! For you chicken lovers who also love abundant garlic, the highly flavourful meat clearly came from a very well cared for chicken. The chicken was moist and cooked a pointe, to perfection! I would have to say that it was very close to being on par with my gold standard for chicken available at any resto in north america, San Francisco's Zuni Cafe! This dish alone was worth the journey all the way to tribecca!

Dessert, ricotta cheesecake, was a bit too creamy but very tasty, with citrus stuffato, pomegranate and was accompanied by a nicely tarte and refreshing blood orange prosecco sorbetto. An extremely satisfying and refreshing dessert! 

The dinner was a remarkable NY value, with a full bottle of mineral water, a $13.00 glass of wine, all in, taxes and 18% gratuity, the bill with all those courses came to $126.00!!