With people such as the Dubys and Heston Blumenthal blurring the line between sweet and savoury, a bacon chocolate bar was almost inevitable.
From Vosges Haut-Chocolat, Mo's Bacon Bar features applewood smoked bacon and alderwood smoked salt embedded in milk chocolate. The first revelation to his us when biting into this bar is the milk chocolate. This is not your average cloying sweet milk chocolate. In fact, it is hard to believe it is not semi-or bittersweet. The combined smokiness of the salt and bacon gives added depth of flavour, with the saltiness serving to offset what sugar content there is.
Alas, the texture lacks the impact delivered by the flavour. Rather than crispness and crunch - expectations raised by Lindt's fleur de sel bar - the bacon bits are chewy, and the salt AWOL in terms of texture. Not only that but the bacon seems to stay in the mouth long after the chocolate is gone.
Still, what might have been just strange is, in fact, a fine combination. But then the bacon/sweet fusion has long been a feature in cookbooks from the American South. It is a reminder that everything old is new again.
$9.99 at McEwan
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