Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Colicchio And Sons, New York

Colicchio and Sons is the hot new spot from well know New York chef, Tom Colicchio, owner chef of restaurants Craft and Craftsteak. He is also head judge on the tv show Top Chef, so my expectations were high.

I began with celery root panacotta with lobster salad and black truffle vinaigrette, which was more like a gastrique. The flavourful panacotta was a wonderful textural complement for the lobster.

Next, butter poached oysters, barely cooked (i loved the creamy aspect of the oysters) was presented a with fine julienne of celery root emulating tagliatelle pasta and topped with American hackleback caviar for seasoning.

My following course was ravioli filled with ricotta, morels and topped with fava leaves and fava beans.
The flavours of the new season morels  and the fava beans went so well together and with the ricotta filling of the pasta. However, the pasta layers could have been thinner and more delicate, and to me, the pasta was harder to the bight than al dente.

Finally, I very much enjoyed the farm chicken pot au feu, very moist, tender slices of chicken breast with a sheet of crispy skin and a paltry 2 small pieces of thick cut black truffles, carrot batons, cabbage, salsify, fois gras ravioi and a small lobe of poached fois gras.Then, an intensely flavoured chicken broth was added. The fat of the fois gras went well with the relatively fat free chicken breast.

So, was this meal up to Mr. Colicchio's top chef expectations? I would have to say no. Each dish was good, but no dish really "sang" to me.

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