Friday Lunch from The One That Got Away

We would never let a few snowflakes and a lot of slush stand between us and a new fish and chip vendor. Opened in November, The one That Got Away offers quite a long menu as fish and chip joints go. Along with the usual fried fillets, they serve grilled fish on salad, and in sandwiches and wraps.A greater than usual selection of fish and seafood makes The One even more appealing. Arctic char, barramundi, pickerel, shrimp, scallops, and calamari join the traditional haddock and halibut. Ahoy, matey, these are fish and chips that are not only politically correct, but offer some hope of healthfulness as well.

Grilled fish on salad is grand but when you want fish and chips only fried will do.
We tried both the halibut and the Arctic char.Straight from the fryer, the fish was a vision of golden loveliness. We are big fans of the lacy batter at Harbord Fish and Chips although it sometimes has a taste of leavening and can be a little too brown. No such problems here. Both fillets are cooked to perfection--past raw but not overcooked into flakes. Alas, there is a downside to take out f&c. By the time they reach the dining room table, or desk, as the case may be, the crispness is long gone. Despite their exterior limpness, the fluffy interior of the fries meant they were delicious anyway. On the other hand, the cole slaw was totally mundane.

 Ditto for the tartar sauce which needed more chopped capers and cornichons.
Following so closely the garlicky wallop which was Paramount's garlic sauce, The One's garlic mayo seemed a trifle understated. Under normal circumstances, it would be fine.

With its clean and simple nautical decor, this is one of the few fish and chip shops in which it would be pleasant to eat. It would be worth it to experience the crispness.



Price: Two orders of fish and chips plus garlic mayo was $30.21
Location: 518 King Street West at Portland. Call 647-351-6153.