Friday, February 8, 2013

Friday Lunch at Rose and Sons

Comfort food is a sure way to beat the January blahs.  In Toronto, there are very few chefs who create better comfort food than Anthony Rose serves up, first at the Drake, and now at Rose and Sons.

We opt for a fried chicken club sandwich. This is something of a re-imagined club.  Thankfully in mid-winter, the obligatory tomato slice is missing.  We don't miss what would probably have been crunchy and anemic. The chicken meat is dark and flavorful although we find the breading a little heavy and slighty soggy. Rather than the three slices of toast which usually form the foundations of a club, this one features a sesame and poppy seed-sprinkled egg bun.  It is a perfect base:  adequate to containt the filling, without leaving the eater with the bread-stuffed feeling of the classic. A layer of nicely dressed coleslaw provides a crunchy alternative to the classic lettuce.  What we would really like is a whole sandwich  featuring more of the thickly sliced bacon which finishes the club. It comes with a side of fries which withstood transportation fairly well--not too steamed.  The "sour" pickle was not quite sour enough for our palate.

For salad, we try the grilled romaine. One of us is not big on cooked lettuce but liked this version and anticipates cravings. The slightly charred leaves still have some inviting crunch left.  Who can resist an anchovy dressing with a dusting of toscano?

For good measure we try the breakfast bread pudding. Topped with a thin wild blueberry sauce, it bears more resemblance to airy French toast than with the heavy starchiness usually associated with bread pudding. Only a dollop of whipped cream might have improved it.

Although somewhat expensive, it was worth it for both flavour and creativity.

Price: $36.16 for a sandwich with fries, salad, and dessert--including tax.

Location: 176 Dupont Street at St. George

Phone: 647-746-3287

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