FRIDAY LUNCH: at Sanagan's Meat Locker

If you are a butcher, it is no longer enough to just sell meat.  You have to at least make an effort to be all things to all people. At The Healthy Butcher, you can stock up on vegetables from Cookstown Greens, or Stirling Creamery butter or, if you are suddenly hit by the urge to start barbecuing, a Big Green Egg is sitting right there. Cumbrae's has superb prepared dishes; Oliffe's makes sandwiches and soup. Sanagan's Meat Locker, newly relocated from its tiny digs further down Baldwin Street, is now in the large space formerly occupied by European Meats. On offer: three sandwiches, rotisserie chicken, and a daily soup and salad.

For our starter we chose a slice of one of the terrines.  The mildly gamey venison was accented by the tangy sweetness of a strip of candied orange zest. It was neither too processed nor too chunky.  Just right!

A delightful venison terrine with candied orange.

We try two of the three sandwiches and a rotisserie chicken breast. The latter is huge, more than enough for four of us to sample. It would be even better with crispier skin but was both meaty and juicy.

Beautiful rotisserie chicken.

We have no complaints about the sandwiches.  Korean style pulled pork--on the board as Bo Sammy-- features succulent but not too sweet pulled pork, given a jolt of heat with a topping of  kim chi slaw. Its roll does a fine job of containing the filling.  Excellent though it is, the roast beef sandwich, Durham's Finest, is even better.  It offers a veritable symphony of textures on one small bun.  Pickled red onions which give both tartness and a little hit of color, arugula, and horseradish with parmigiano frico are the flavour accents for slices of perfectly cooked roast beef.  But the real star of this sandwich is a whole grain seeded bun.  Both chewy and crunchy, it is the perfect foil for its filling. Incidentally, the breads are baked on site.

Korean style pulled pork sandwich with cauliflower/raisin/arugula salad

The phenomenal roast beef sandwich

We have two sides:  French fries, and salad.  Watch out, Jamie Kennedy.  Although these fries are not quite the thin paragons of the standard Kennedy has set, they are almost as golden, and as well-seasoned.  Given the TTC ride from Kensington market to Yonge and Yorkville, they remained pretty crisp.  Once again, a great play of textures made the salad of cauliflower florets, raisins, and tiny croutons stand out.

Golden fries with chives

Herb & cheese foccacia

We will definitely be back for takeout.  By the way, if you are intending to cook rather than just eat, the meat is excellent, too.

Their specials of the day

Price: Two sandwiches with sides, extra bread, a chicken breast, and slice of terrine, approximately $40.00.

Location: 206 Baldwin Street

Phone: (416) 593-9747

Newfoundland's Raymonds restaurant comes to Stratus winery

Charles Baker, Stratus Winery, Jeremy Charles chef/co-owner Raymonds, Alison Fryer, The Cookbook Store, Jeremy Bonia Wine Director co-owner Raymonds. (Photo: Elena Galey-Pride)

Saturday November 3rd, was the second dinner in Stratus Winery's ambitious Coast2Coast series celebrating Canada's great chefs and their restaurants, which of course also serve Stratus wines. The first event was in early summer with Vikram Vij from Vancouver, and what a memorable night that was, how on earth could Stratus top that, especially as harvest was in full swing in early November. Well apparently all you need to do is put a call in to the two Jeremy's, co-owners of Raymonds, in none other than Newfoundland and you are guaranteed an amazing meal and classic Newfoundland hospitality. 

Alison hosted the chat and question and answer portion which was also when tasty unusual appetizers were passed. Cod sounds (this is the cod's air bladder) - snow crab - cold water shrimp, diver scallop on shell - sea urchin foam - acadian sturgeon caviar, smoked moose heart - parsley puree. These were paired beautifully with the 2008 Stratus Riesling.

Chef Jeremy was animated in describing his involvement with his friends in hunting and foraging, although he let slip he didn't have his hunting license yet, but  he quickly said he was working on it!  And sommelier Jeremy had us equally enthralled describing how the availability of European wines in Newfoundland was quite astonishing compared to rest of Canada. That said he does have a soft spot for Stratus wines as they pair so well with the game and also the seafood they serve on the menu at Raymonds. Both Jeremys had been foraging in Newfoundland the very morning of their departure to Ontario so the meal was truly of the moment and most remarkable in light of their travel as they were in NYC cooking at the James Beard House all the while trying to dodge Hurricane Sandy!

Winemaker J-L Groux and Jeremy out did themselves with the wine selections paired with the meal. I still think any of the moose dishes were my favourites, but the cod sound was truly unique and did I forget to say dessert was sublime a perfect light ending to the meal.

 Charles Baker and his team at Stratus have hit upon a winning combination for their Coast2Coast series and one can only wonder at what chef pairings they will dream up for next year. Don't miss them, they are engaging, unique and educational all rolled into one evening.

Cod: roasted cod, peas pudding agnolotti, smoked pork back.

 Paired with 2009 Stratus Meritage

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Rabbit: wild rabbit loin, jerusalem artichike, burssels sprouts, bacon, winter chanterelles. Paired with 2005 Stratus Cabernet Franc.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

Moose: moose ravioli, smoked moose tongue, crispy shallots, parmigiano. Paired with 2009 Stratus Gamay.

Partridge: breast of wild partridge with braise & hearts, steel-cut oats, partridge berries. Paired with 2007 Stratus Red

Blueberry: blueberry sorbet, labrador tea& thyme custard, yoghurt, blueberry puree, sable crumble. Paired with 2011 Stratus Icewine Red.

Langdon Hall: An Extraordinary Fall Special Dinner event

I have to say, that although I have had enjoyable meals at Langdon hall, the 2 special occasion dinners that chef Jonathan Gushue created for me, with a few friends, over the last 14 months, have been the finest meal experiences that I have enjoyed in Canada, a large range of symphonic flavours. Call chef Gushue and ask him to create an event like this and he will rise to the challenge and provide you with the most remarkable experience. Be prepared to spend the entire evening and be prepared for wonderful, novel flavour surprises.

Parsnip chips and dip. Parsnip puree topped with foraged mushroom powder.

Crisped arctic char skin, rasped duck gizzard on seaweed aioli.

Lardo and lettuce.

Wakame chips, maple and sunflower seeds.

Foie gras and coco nibs.

Deviled pig's skin dusted with dried chili powder and toasted nori powder with smoked whitefish roe topped with chopped chives.

Black bread and trout. The black bread is bread made with vegetable ash. The puree is cured lake trout puree, trout bonito, espelette, dulse and chives.

Oyster with cabbage and sorrel.

Digby scallop in a shallot dressing, dogwood berry juice, cold pressed canola oil and chickweed.

Pickerel cured in fermented carrot juice with toasted sunflower salt and celery root.

Veal tartar, soused clam and fennel tops with clam aioli, arugula oil and rose petals.

Albacore tuna, leek ash, dill, and green cherry tomato.

Leek oil and cream added to tuna.

Salted and poached cod tongues with rouge pumpkin, amaranth.

Salt cod  and pumpkin broth with chopped chives added to the cod tongues.

Roasted black and white salsify and salsify puree with wild sturgeon caviar, chickweed, chips and mustard oil.

Foraged mushroom crumble, golden yolk potato and preserved grape tomato.

Coddled duck’s egg, confit duck hearts, sea urchin crumble and garlic flower.

Braised squid, veal tendon, burnt seeds, dried onion, caplin and garlic nage, all topped with crisp kale.

Pigeon, salted berries and hay sauce.

Lamb liver, milk cap mushrooms, mushroom oil and amaranth.

Smoked pig's tongue with char-grilled cabbage, mussel creme fraiche and garlic mustard greens.

Comte cheese, honeycomb, chanterelle and turnip.

Tasting of birch: birch meringue and birch sorbet with caramelized pears in ale.

Chocolate and beet.

Celery and seabuckthorn mead, a wonderful refreshing finish to a grand meal.

Mignardises: plum jellies and chocolate macaroons "Michel Cluizel".

One would be hard pressed to enjoy many meals better than this.

Paris Restos Fall 2012: Le Comptoir, Le Chateaubriand, Semilla, Lunch at the Crillon, Epicure Restaurant at the Hotel Bristol, Crystal de Sel

Le Comptoir

Chef Yves Camdeborde's set menu is only offered once every 2 weeks. Dinners and lunches available 7 days a week are a la carte from an extensive menu but reservations are only possible for guests of the hotel (on the premises that he owns, Hotel Relais St. Germain).

Creamy risotto with cepes, parmesan emulsion and parsley mousse with small  cepes "bouchon confits".

European blue lobster and pied de porc enhanced with black current juice,  green beans, sweet corn, bearnais sauce and young mustard greens.

Very young farm raised veal, puree of artichokes, artichoke heart, leeks, soft sweet peppers "jus iodee".

A plate of cheese from the pyrenees from the cheesemonger, Sander's (no photo).

Shortbread tart with figs, hay flavoured cream and buttermilk ice cream.

Chateaubriand

This super-hot resto of the moment is extremely difficult to reserve.

Light as air gougere topped with poppy seeds.

Grapefruit juice sauced mullet cevice. Interesting.

Lightly fried breaded frog's legs. Simple, but tasty.

Flour dusted fried eggplant (creamy consistency), with physalis (cape gooseberry) possessing a tomatillo like flavour with fried capers.

Soup of puree of green tomatoes with goat cheese and oregano.

Tuna from Saint Jean de Luz, onions, dill flower et raspberries. The tuna sauce was made from the head of the tuna. Several different kinds of pickled Italian onions were used in this dish.

Fresh brill (barbue de ligne) with capuccine leaves, butter, green beans and fresh unroasted walnuts.

Presa Iberique (Spanish black ham), sliced turnip, sliced radish and sliced pear topped with a small piece of sardine.

Frozen and grated buttermilk, herbs, beurrre noisette (butter that is browned to a hazelnut colour), seaweed, meringue and mint.

Tocino del cielo (a typical dessert from Basque country) with caramelized egg yolk and sugared, almond flour pastry.

Figs covered in candied fennel seeds.

Semilla

This resto, for me, was one of my great "finds" of this trip, and this only by accident because another reservation that I made had the date confused. A new "must" for Paris!

Parsnip veloute, farmer's cream, cepes and raw nuts. This was a delight.

Pan fried cepes with beef gravy. Eating this wonderful seasonal mushroom dish put me in a special heaven.

Pomme de terre grenailles (new potatoes) baked in the oven with candied garlic.

Open ravioli of snails, forest mushrooms, persillade (chopped parsley and garlic) and crispy bread crumbs. A memorable dish and perhaps my very favourite snail experience!

Blanquette d'agneau (lamb stew in a white sauce), parsnip, a plethora of cepes shavings, cream and lamb jus. A moderne take on L'ancienne cuisine. A most pleasing dish.

Verbena and peach soup with house made brioche. A refreshing, palate cleansing end to the meal.

Fruits de bois (raspberries, blueberries and fig), almond biscuit, vanilla ice cream and meringue, topped with chopped pistachios. What, ...more! Incredible harmony of flavours and textures on this plate.

Lunch at Hotel Crillon

I just had to report about this quick lunch I enjoyed at the bar in the Hotel Crillon. Their version of a club sandwich.....but, what a presentation with the bacon feature on top of the sandwich! Good fries too.

Epicure Restaurant at the Bristol Hotel 

Chef Eric Frechon oversees this 3*** restaurant.

Kugloff, to begin.

In the spoon, cucumber jelly surrounding a fresh oyster; Lollypop prawn with olive oil and dusted with tandoori spices; foie gras "royal", slightly smoked, with a foie gras/avocado mousse. Each taste experience out-did the next.

Mousseline of artichoke jelly with coriander and artichoke foam, cockerel and crispy croutons.

Frog's legs.

Purple sea urchin, simmered in their shells with tongue and sea urchin broth created into a smooth scrambled egg mousse, with sea urchin butter (in the wrapper, on the top right) and toasts. An exceptional sea urchin experience.

Bresse farm hen, poached in a pig's bladder.

The Bresse farm hen, "supreme" (breasts), sauce of vin juaune, "royal" jiblets, freshwater crayfish and chanterelles. This chicken experience will easily be the best you will have enjoyed. Incredibly tender and flavourful, juicy, perfectly cooked chicken.

The presentation of the soup created from the leg and thigh meat and bones.

The soup, made of the leg and thigh meat and the chicken oyster, an intensely flavourful chicken stock with leek, potato and foie gras, redolent of the smells and flavours of black truffles. This experience will be the greatest chicken soup that you will ever encounter!

The soup unveiled.

Iced apple compote, carmel jelly and apple.

An incredible organic manjari chocolate in an origami shape, iced coconut milk, hot chocolate elixer and chocolate shortbread.

Lemon tea jelly.

Incredible, straight from the oven, lemon flavoured madelaines.

Crystal de Sel

Ravioli of dublin bay prawns, buttered cabbage with beurre de nage. A lovely execution of this dish. Very delicate ravioli and very fresh prawns.

Scottish grouse, muscat grapes, figs, pleurote mushrooms and strawberries with lemon.

Peaches, pain de Gênes (almond flour sponge cake) with chocolat Sur Del Lago 75%, and peach soup with ras-el hanout.