I first heard about The Cookbook Store during
my first couple of days in Toronto. It was March 2009, I had recently finished university
at home in Ireland and I had taken myself to Canada yearning for adventure and
a taste of the unknown. At this point the only new taste I had actually experienced
was that of the stodgy free pancake breakfast at the colourful hostel I was
staying in downtown. A little homesick, and somewhat cold and forlorn, I
stumbled across the store one day and all was changed: a whole shop full of
cookbooks! I couldn’t think of anything more wonderful to stumble across. I
came back the next day armed with a resumé and spoke to Alison. As luck would
have it, they had an opening and after a couple of days waiting for the phone
to ring, she called to tell me I had a trial at the store. It must have gone
well because before I knew it I had been christened “Irish Alison” (to save on
confusion) and was a proud Cookbook Store member of staff.
In my first week or so at the store we
held a bread and cheese evening and I think it was somewhere through a mouthful
of tangy sourdough topped with creamy, salty artisanal butter that I thought, “this
is it, this is the best job in the world”. I have so many great memories of my
time there that it’s almost impossible to narrow them down; meeting bone fide
culinary legends like Ruth Reichl, Elizabeth Baird, and Thomas Keller. Taking
part in fun Cookbook Store events, from sampling Ontario apples until midnight
on Nuit Blanche, to helping out with the liquid nitrogen at a molecular gastronomy
showcase. There was so much passion and enthusiasm among both staff and
customers, and I learned so much from my colleagues, and from cooking and
baking for our events. I remember walking around my stifling apartment with a
bowl and a whisk in the humid height of Summer trying to coax egg whites into
peaks to make Reine de Saba cakes for Julia Child’s birthday party, and
painstakingly applying the almond ‘nails’ to dozens of witches fingers cookies
for Halloween.
But I think it was the day-to-day stuff that
was the most fun; getting to know our wonderful
regular customers and
neighbours around Yonge and Yorkville, who would regularly pop in to tell us of
the success of a new recipe or, even better, bring us samples. ‘Testing’ a
whole batch of Alice Medrich’s cocoa brownies (for research purposes,
obviously) with a colleague who would also become a great friend. Having a customer pop in looking for
something new, but not sure what exactly, and helping them to find the perfect
book. Chatting about recipes for hours on end with fellow food obsessives, and
sometimes even helping to troubleshoot cooking in real time; it was only after
several lengthy phone conversations about jam setting that I realised that the
Certo helpline is only a digit different to The Cookbook Store phone number,
thus explaining the high volume of jam-related calls. What a lucky twist of
fate that the unfortunate preservers would still get through to one of the only
numbers in Toronto that would be able to offer real empathy and advice.
Even
after nearly 30 years in business a new shipment of books would still cause
excitement among the whole staff, all other work would be temporarily put on
hold while new publications were pored over. Saturday afternoons were one of my
favourite times of the week; listening to classical music with Jennifer as we
helped customers select books for themselves, for friends, for family. Books
that would be taken to bed for leisurely perusal, books that would later have
their pages spattered with sauces, and stuck together with dough. Books that
would inspire the city’s chefs to new creative heights. Books that would help
to feed and nourish loved ones, and would become the cracked-spined, dog-eared
suppertime bibles of families.
Although I now live across the Atlantic
in London, England, Toronto is always still on my mind, and The Cookbook Store
especially. What Alison and Jennifer have built isn’t just a business, it’s a
community, filled with customers and staff members who have become friends,
across years and miles. For me, working at The Cookbook Store wasn’t just a
job, it was my home away from home, and it is still one of my favourite places
in the world. So happy 30th birthday Cookbook Store, and here’s to
many happy returns!!
(Irish) Alison
Cookbook Store employee
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