Friday, November 7, 2014

Edulis, Truffle Season and The New Style Menu.

Recently, I have noticed that the trend for many of the best restos, when I travel to London, Paris and New York, is to have no menu per se. Just how many courses and how much. Essentially, an omikase (trust the chef) menu with whatever ingredient is the most interesting from the best of what is supplied from the region or locally. The waiter asks is you have any food dislikes, food preferences (such as better cooked meat or fish) or any food allergies. Another local restaurant that is following this procedure is Splendido.

The "new" menu. 

Kona Kompachi (yellowtail family), cured in sake lees, accompanied by tomatillo puree.

Whelks and matsutake mushrooms, charcoal grilled cucumbers and chrysanthemum leaves awaiting their broth.

Pine honey broth and sudachi zest is added to the dish above. Subtle and dreamy flavours.

The royal presentation for an egg!!!!

The egg, scrambled to curd perfection and loaded with chopped white truffles.

Madai snapper cooked a la plancha with ajo blanco (a sauce of crushed almonds, garlic, bread crumbs, vinegar and salt), roasted porcini and brussel sprout leaves. Another demonstration of chef Cabbalo's mastery of flavours.

Just shucked Gaspe scallops with slightly crunchy, perfectly cooked baby leeks and pine nuts all enrobed with a white truffle sauce. OMG this was a bit of flavour heaven!

Nova scotia albacore tuna, gently seared over charcoal with fennel, zucchini and fennel pollen lightly dressed with an olive oil sauce.

Another assembly of great flavours, an artichoke barigoule (braised artichokes) with chicken sausage, chanterelles and frisee.

A master stroke for any great food lover and the signature style of chef Cabbalo, 25 day old chicken is presented then cut up and sauced a la creme with cider and white truffles (more!!!...after all this IS truffle night!!), with apple and celery root. The chicken is accompanied with the dish below.

Sauteed potatoes and spinach.

Agaricus (bisporus.... the edible variety) mushrooms that had been freshly picked this morning, with sliced white truffles and celery root.

An absolutely fabulous white truffle risotto.

Chocolate birthday cake, dark chocolate and caramel, a cake of great texture. Believe it or not, an 11" diameter cake, 2/3 devoured by 3 people who could not stop from having  an extra, and an extra "just a small thin slice".

Chef Cabbalo expresses his rustic sensibilities in a highly knowledgeable and sophisticated manner. He is truly one of Canada's great chefs!

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