Wednesday, August 30, 2017

The Faviken Experience, Jarpen, Sweden

In 2013, Faviken was ranked by Zagat as one of the top 10 restos to eat and has been voted one of the top 50 restaurants in the world by San Pellegrino Best Restaurants. The restaurant is located on a 19th century farm/ estate of approx 20,000 acres. The Restaurant has only 16 seats. Lunch is only served to patrons who stay overnight. The executive chef is Magnus Nilsson. The cuisine is made up of ingredients that come from the estate or very close by (within a couple of 100 miles in the case of seafood). The food is created to bring you closer to the food's origin and in most cases, is an expression of the region.

To reach Faviken, we flew an hour (about 570km) north-east of Stockholm to Ostersund airport, rented a car and drove about an hour north to Faviken.

Checking in to Faviken. At first glance, it appears to be a converted farmhouse.

Checking in to my room. Small, but cozy, comfortable and clean. 

Enjoying drinks on the patio at sunset. 

The view from the patio.

Snacks served on the patio at sunset. 

With chef Magnus Nilsson.

Linseed and vinegar crisps with mussel dip.

Whole grain wheat cracker with carrot salad. 

Broth of smoked and dried reindeer, decomposing leaves, very fresh curds and crowberries. 

Wild flowers served in a crust of dried pig's blood.  

Pig's head dipped in sourdough and deep fried, accompanied by gooseberry and tarragon salt. 

Bird's liver custard, malted cabbage, red currants and wild beans.

Slices of cured pork. An extreme of sublime indulgence.

The presentation of the butter made here on the Faviken farm. Rich, sweet, grassy and delicious. Yes, I ate most of it (it was for 2)! 

A view of the second floor dining room of the converted barn, spartan,"real" and very comfortable.

The presentation of the scallop "i skalet ur elden", cooked over burning juniper branches.

Opening the scallop. 

 This was a very big, juicy and really delicious scallop. 

King crab, fleshy and perfectly cooked accompanied by almost burnt cream. 

Activity in the open kitchen in the second floor dining room. The main kitchen is hidden away on the ground floor.

Lamb's tongue according to Cajsa Warg (one of the best known cooks in Swedish history), accompanied by brined vegetables. 

Another view of the above dish. Such a beautiful, appetizing presentation.

Mackerel cooked under a basket of coals and spruce needles with pickled jerusalem artichoke. 

Sourdough pancake and seaweed topped with beef butter.

Lupin curd gratin. 

The presentation of a small egg coated in ash accompanied by a sauce made from dried trout and pickled marigold.

Peeling the egg. 

Steamed Swiss chard with very good cream and Finnish caviar. 

Grilled veal, perfectly cooked with fermented, roasted and ground lupin, a very flavourful broth with leaves and toasted oats. 

Colostrum with meadowsweet.

Raw jerusalem artichoke accompanied by (out of view) dark roasted cereals.

Silage ice cream (no photo).

Potato dream, a take on a Swedish cookie, made from potato caramel sandwiched between 2 cake-like biscuits.

Raspberry ice (no photo). The ball of the ice is presented in a wrapper, on a plate.

The presentation of brown cheese pie. 

 The cheese pie plated accompanied by gompa, (upper left).

Various leaves/herbs offered for one to choose, for tea. 

Bone marrow pudding with frozen milk. 

Pickled semi dry root vegetables with a sugar coating. 

Meat and birch pie.

A wooden box filled with tar pastilles, meadowsweet candy, dried rowanberries, dried arctic angelica, smoked caramel, and dried black currants. 

Aromatic, sugared seeds.

An exceptional cigar selection for those that want them. 

Incredible offering of post-prandial drinks!

Breakfast at Faviken

The view of our table for 2 before sitting down. Birch and liver pate is located in the small bowl at about 6 o'clock below the main plate. Fresh, creamy cheese is located in the small circular bowl at the bottom of the plate, to the left of the pate. To the right of the pate bowl is a small bowl of cloudberry jam. In the glass mason jar located at about 4 o'clock next to the plate is trout topped with caramelized butter. Note the large slab of their rich delicious farm butter about 2 o'clock to the right of the plate. To the top left of the butter is house made roe with lovage salt.

Sliced elk, sliced smoked ham and cheese. 

Soft boiled eggs. 

 Grainy cereal.

Cookies with jam.

In all, a very substantial, very rich but deliciously flavourful breakfast.

A final fair-well morning  view of the farm around Faviken.

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