Buster Rhino's BBQ, Oshawa, Ontario

There has been a lot of talk, in the food community and among BBQ aficionados about Buster Rhino's BBQ so we decided to journey west of Toronto to experience this resto first hand.

The onion rings were ungreasy, crispy and tasty.

The cornbread hush puppies were crisp on the outside, fluffy inside and had an appealing flavour. You can't just eat one of these.

A very good, kind of addictive and highly appealing side, that I neglected to photograph was the "pop caps", battered and quickly deep fried, pickled jalapeno slices.

My mixed BBQ, ribs, chicken wings and a sliced smoked beef sandwich. I found the ribs a bit too dry, the smoked chicken wings (smoked for 15 hours then quickly deep fried to crisp up the skin) were good and the sliced brisket sandwich ok, but the beef, smoked for "16-20 hours", was a bit too dry and somehow lacking in good smokey flavour.

The very good pecan pie.

Conversing with the owner, we found him highly knowledgeable, but the execution of the BBQ dishes we received was frankly wanting. Remarkably, all of the other elements of this meal were very good. But, we came for BBQ!! I am still on the lookout for GREAT BBQ.

Just an aside, I just returned from being an invited judge at the annual world series of BBQ, "THE JACK", the Jack Daniels annual BBQ competition in Lynchburg Tennessee. More on this experience, shortly.

Leslieville Pumps BBQ, Toronto

What convenience! Get gas, easy parking and good grub available night and day: BBQ during the day and later, at night, Indian food. I was there for the BBQ.

A very good corn muffin, one of the best I have enjoyed anywhere. Good corn flavour, crispy at the edges, soft interior, with a very pleasing coarse texture.

BBQ corn salad with a nice Asian style dressing. Good flavours, but, seasonal corn would have been better tasting and sweeter (I am still catching up as I was here early july).

Very good corn fritters, with a crunchy skin.

A standout experience for this city. Fried, breaded pickles. Could not stop eating these, crispy on the outside, crunchy, sour interior and the sour pickle flavour makes for an interesting and appealing contrast. Guaranteed, you wont be able to eat just one!

Very good house made BBQ baked beans with a very thick, consistency. The rich, smokey flavour helps to set these beans apart and was a major attraction for me.

Slow hickory smoked (14 hours) in an Oklahoma smoker, pulled pork, house made bbq sauce and cole slaw. A good sandwich, but, I would have preferred a slightly stronger smoky flavour. Making meat absorb the smoke and then, after cooking, keeping the smoky flavour, is part of the trick.

Hickory smoked chicken thighs with grilled tomato, arugula and sweet chilli aioli. A very tasty sandwich overall with nice complementary flavours. This was my favourite sandwich.

Slow hickory smoked (14 hour) beef brisket with house made bbq sauce, grainy mustard and crispy fried onions. Again, I would have preferred a slightly stronger smoky flavour, but it was a good sandwich.

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My only reflection was that the flavour of the bbq sauce, although it had a lot of interesting ingredients, although ok, just did not appeal to me.

LESLIEVILLE PUMPS BBQ
929 Queen St. East,(at Carlaw) Toronto
416-465-1313

 

Stack BBQ, Toronto

Another new BBQ resto that does bbq and other dishes. But, I was here to test the BBQ. Below, a platter we selected of baby back ribs, chipotle pulled pork, the stack sliced brisket, bbq beans, sliced montreal style smoked meat, mac and cheese and fresh cut fries. I don't eat mac and cheese so no comment there, and besides, I was here for BBQ! The ribs were very tasty but fell off the bone far too easily and were a bit overcooked. The Montreal style smoked meat was very good, but not as good as Caplansky's... the next best thing. The Montreal style smoked meat would be good in a sandwich, but better served at a deli.  The bbq beans had very good texture and favour, enriched by smoke and molasses. The pulled pork was good as was the brisket. Both had a nice smokey flavour and good texture. I liked the rich flavoured viscous bbq sauce. This is good bbq, but not "great" bbq.....but "great" bbq is truly rare north of the 49th parallel.

Lou Dawgs BBQ, Toronto

This branch, on Gerrard Street, is an offshoot of the original King Street location.

The brisket sandwich with house made baked beans. Unfortunately the taste of the brisket was overwhelmed by the sauce. I should have requested the brisket without sauce and added my own. The brisket had a pleasant smoky flavour but, because of all of the sauce, it was hard to tell and may have been a touch on the dry side. The bun was slightly crispy from toasting and was perfect for the sandwich. The mildly smokey beans were laden with chunks of the bbq brisket meat. The accompanying sauce had been nicely reduced into a thick consistently. I could return just for the beans!

The pulled pork sandwich was good. There was a good porky flavour to the meat with a soft smoky taste. The sauce did not overwhelm the meat.

The ribs were the only disappointment. They were too dry and fell off the bone in an unpleasant way. I did not enjoy the rub and if the meat had been better I would have added the sauce.

Friday Lunch from Drake Hotel BBQ

If you want to sample barbecue Drake Hotel style, dash over there by July 3 when Anthony Rose puts down his Q tools.  If you do go, our advice is to stick to the brisket sandwich.

We, of course, tried both brisket and pulled pork sandwiches.  Altough the brisket seemed a tiny bit dry, it displayed a perfect flavor balance amongst its sweet , spicy , tangy, and smoky  elements.  The judicious addition of a dollop of coleslaw gave the sandwich just the right texture.

Usually when sampling both brisket and pulled pork, we favor the latter.  The reverse was the case this time The pulled pork sandwich lacked the great balance displayed by its brisket counterpart.  Instead, it was vinegar rearing its acidic head. Where was the juicy succulence that makes pu8lled pork so seductive?

We are all in favor of authenticity--except when it comes to squooshy Wonder Bread-style buns.  We are pretty sure such buns are the platform for much of the barbecue served up across the American South.  However when you could choose something that has some taste and that is not disintegration-prone, why not?  Just sayin'.

We went whole hog here, so to speak, and had dessert--a pecan tart and a whoopie pie.  All sugar, all the time.  The pecan tart was a typical example.Cushioning the unadulteratedly sweet icing , the whoopie biscuits were crisp rather than cakey.  texture we had anticipated.  To borrow a phrase from Irish Alison--little pillows of Type 2 diabetes.


Price:  $24.25 for two sandwiches, a whoopie pie, and a pecan tart

Location: 1159 Queen Street West

Phone: 416-531-5042

Barque Restaurant at Night

We began with a terrific, juicy miami ribs starter with a very tasty bbq sauce

Then, brisket arrived, presented in a cast iron skillet, not too smoky but with a solid beefy flavour and quite tender. The brisket was very good but I might have preferred a little more smoky flavour.

I had a combination platter. The chicken thigh had a nice smoky flavour, a very good caramelized BBQ sauce but the meat was a bit dry. The beef rib was nicely smoky and tender. The very good smoky pork ribs had a wonderful sauce with good texture but the meat was slightly dry. Cuban corn had terrific flavour but would have had better flavour and texture if it was regional and in season.

Very tasty, house seasoned fries with citron aioli.

The caesar salad  was unremarkable.

Dessert, I know, I know!! .....I just couldn't wait before I took my photo. This was a great pecan pie and sided with terrific Greg's roasted marshmallow ice cream, a very good combination.

The big problem if you come to Barque at night. They are very busy and despite highly competent servers, the orders come very slowly. I suggest that one should order starters like the miami ribs, because the mains could take 1 hour to come....no exaggeration.....but worth it!

Barque, Take 2, Lunch at the Source

After reading about takeout Barque, I decided to go to the source. I was hoping for more than sandwiches, but that's it, that's lunch. For those of you hoping for bbq'd sliced brisket or bbq'd chicken or ribs or pulled lamb, those are dinner items only.


First I must declare that the Barque sandwiches are worth going out of their way for and it is quite a bit off the beaten path.


The brisket sandwich was very good and very enjoyable. Mildly smoky and slightly dry beef was well lubricated with fried onions and a tangy red cabbage slaw, all in a very good bun, delightfully crispy on the top. If I was served sliced brisket that had just been smoked like that, I may not have rated it well as an item to be eaten on it's own, as I prefer more smoke in a slightly fattier cut. But, I will hold judgement until I return for dinner. 

The bbq'd chicken sandwich was equally very good. Mildly smoky pulled chicken topped with candied smoked bacon, romaine lettuce and aoli with a bit of a bite, all on a very good crispy topped bun. The overall effect of the smoked bacon and smoky chicken satisfied my appetite for smoky flavours. The aioli provided a very flavourful bight and just the right counterpoint for this delicious sandwich.

In addition to the very enjoyable fillings for these sandwiches I must congratulate the chef on choosing such a highly satisfying bun, they hold up well and have a very pleasant crunchy skin on their tops.


I did not order the french fries!

Friday Lunch from Barque

Despite its location way north of the Mason-Dixon Line, Toronto just cannot stop its desire to be abarbecue capital .  One of the newest entries in the drive to create a barbecue restaurant on every block in the city, Barque, on Roncesvalles, is also one of the most subtle barbecue joints.

After a few too many soggy fries and smushed rolls, in theory, we think we should be seeking our lunches a little closer to home.In practice, we just cannot resist the call of whatever is new, no matter where it is.  Hence, Designated Courier is off on another subway/streetcar ride. And yes, the fries suffered...again. However, his quarry, a Barque brisket sandwich and a smoked trout sandwich, were well worth the miles travelled.

Smoked Trout Sandwich with Avocado, Olives and Arugula

The trout is barely smoked so that the flavour of the fish rather than of the smoke is foremost while the flesh maintains a rosy hue.  The tomato, arugula, olive and avocado are perfect accompaniments  , enhancing the flavour while also providing colour contrast.

Smoked Brisket Sandwich with Crispy Fried Onions and Pickled Red Cabbage

If your barbecue pleasure resides in gooey sauces and crunchy charred bits, this brisket sandwich is not for you.Again the smokiness is barely there. The meat is paired with  lightly dressed red cabbage for crunch.

The buns Barque uses for its sandwiches are excellent. With a chewy crust, they have enough body to contain their fillings--and to travel well.  Also, there is no breaking of teeth on an over baked crust!

French Fries and Coconut-Corn Soup (Bacon not visible)

Arugula and Shaved Fennel Salad, Orange Segments, Citrus Vinaigrette

The sides are as good as the sandwiches.  The coconut corn soup should not be missed.  A green-flecked sweet and suave puree, it will yield up the surprise of bacon in the last spoonful.  A salad of shaved fennel and orange is a refreshing companion to the sandwiches.  Although Older Eater is usually not fond of fennel, here the anisey flavor is not so apparent.  A little sprinkle of Maldon salt for added texture would have made a good thing even better. Two small samples of barbecue sauce also come with the sandwiches.  One is a typical dark and smokey rendition while the lighter hued sauce is a spicy mustard version.

Whoever worked out  the menu at Barque either has an inherently fine palate or is extremely thoughtful about pairing ingredients. Each element on the plate worked with the others to create a harmonious whole.  Not only is this rare in barbecue restaurants, it is seen less frequently in fine dining establishments than one expect.  So Barque, long may you run.


Price: Two sandwiches, salad and fries(bonus soup) cost $27.17

Location:  299 Roncesvalles

 Phone: (416) 532-7700

Big Bone BBQ, Newmarket, Ontario

Big Bone BBQ is a long way from downtown Toronto. Is it worth the drive for an experienced BBQ lover who has been all over North America for good BBQ? Probably not unless you live in the area, although it was certainly good. This style was somewhat similar to the Memphis style, with wet bbq treatment for the pulled pork, brisket and ribs. The sauce was good and on a scale of 1 to 10 (10 best) it was a 7. The rib meat fell readily off the bone and although quite juicy, from my perspective,  a bit over cooked because with no effort at all, the meat slid right off the bone. The Brisket meat was not smokey enough. It was sliced a bit too thin for my preference and because it was drenched in bbq sauce and sliced so thin, it was difficult to determine how juicy the meat really was. Nevertheless, I am sure that brisket meat and sauce would be good in a sandwich. The pulled pork was good and drenched in the bbq sauce, would make a good sandwich. Again, for me, the pork was not quite smokey enough and this pulled pork was not as good as Paul and Sandy's BBQ'd pulled pork (the only thing I really liked there), in the west side of Toronto. The picture below is the ribs and pulled pork.

The fries were crisp. The beans were good, mostly because of the sauce, but no smokey flavour. But, it was all good value. The portions were on the large side and fed 4 people. The full rack of ribs, order of pulled pork (the eaters could not be prevented from grabbing some of the pork and ribs before the photo was taken), the order of brisket, all of the sides and with 3 bottles of water, the bill was $51.70. 

Big Bone BBQ
207 Eagle Street
Newmarket, ON
(905) 853-9888

Event Photos: Ted Reader's Burgers!

Post and Photos by Gina

We thought we'd share some pictures from Ted Reader's grill-tastic appearance at the store a few weeks ago. He was here in promotion of his newest book Napoleon's Everyday Gourmet Burgers ($27.95 - and yes, we still have some signed copies!), and was grilling up a storm on his HUGE rig.

Three grill rig with a built in smoker!

King of the 'Q

 Mini Carolina Pulled-Pork Burgers with Mustard Slaw

Here is Ted's lovely and talented assistant planking some mini Super Thick and Cheesy Burgers (my fave for the day!)

One last shot of the whole monster grill.

PS- We're raffling off a portable Napoleon Gas Grill in the store - come in soon to enter!

Friday Lunch (and more!) at Smokin' Bones

Good news, all you students around Dundas East and Church.  There is an alternative to noodles, noodles, and more noodles. Billed as southern comfort food, Smokin’ Bones menu specializes in ribs, fried chicken, and sandwiches.

Despite both a chilly walk of a few blocks and a subway ride, when we finally tuck into the fries, they are still crispy. The colour may be a little pale, the flavour muted, but the texture is right on. They set the tone for the whole meal.  Everything that should be crunchy is, but the cook needs a heavier hand with seasoning in some dishes. Josh's group tried the sweet potato fries which also arrived nicely crunchy.

 Another case in point is the piece of fried chicken, half of a chicken/rib combo. The batter is gossamer, nicely coating the meat, but cries out for salt, perhaps cayenne for tang, and a few herbs.  The chicken itself is perfectly cooked within the golden batter. The texture is not so spot on with the rib part of the combo.  We would have preferred stickiness to the clumpy rub but the meat is tender.

Josh went with a bunch of foodie friends (Molloy, Kimel, Kosoy, Levy, Bersani), including a chef and two former high end resto owners. Their take on the fried chicken was that the texture of the crust was crispy and good but it was way too oversalted, so clearly there is some inconsistency here. And, as for the ribs, they were perfectly cooked as a bight did not make the meat fall off the bone, but it did come away easily. Also, although the smokey flavour and sauce were good, the taste of the dry rub was a bit too prevalent. The bbq sauce itself, served on the side, was a little too pasty and thick as can be seen in the picture but the flavour was ok, not exceptional.

We also tried the brisket a standby of many famous bbq joints down south. But, this brisket was tasteless and the texture unpleasant. Also, it lacked the flavour of any smoke which we expected based on our southern experience. So we suggest skipping the brisket entirely.

So often restaurant coleslaw is over-processed, producing a soupy mush of mayo diluted with too much moisture from the cabbage.  Not so here.  The dressing clings to the veggies but again needs more seasoning while avoiding the common mistake of too much vinegar.

The hit here is the pulled pork sandwich which both tasting groups were in complete agreement.  Though the bun, initially, seems too soft, it is just right.  The puffy centre melds with the moist strings of smokey, sweet/spicy pork, but the crust is strong enough to contain the juicy filling. Josh felt that this could be the best tasting pulled pork sandwich in Toronto.

Josh's group also tried the andouille sausage. It's coarse texture and excellent spiced flavour (but not hot spicey) made this sausage, in their opinion, one of the best tasting sausages in the city.

Being in the mood to try everything, Josh's group also tried the meat loaf sandwich. The meat loaf had a delightful coarse texture and yet was soft enough to easily crumble with a bight. The house made bbq sauce was a flavourful touch. Some meat loafs are so firm that one needs a knife to cut them. The flavour of this meat loaf was very good, the vegetables and spices held their own with the meat flavour.

We then decided to try the jambalaya and chili, despite the fact that our group origionally came for the bbq. The chili was very flavourful and had a good consistency but lacked the classic spicey qualities one comes to expect from a classic chili. the jumbalaya was flavourful with the taste of the bbq'd pork and the andouille sausage but the rice consistency was a negative on the overall experience and was mushy and overcooked.

Alas, due to a non-functioning oven, the pie promised on the menu is unavailable.  We will be back to try the pie --and to have another pulled pork sandwich. Josh's group will be back for the pulled pork sandwich, the sausage and the meat loaf sandwich. The vaunted bbq beans were not available for them. As for the pie.....well, they are on a diet!!

Price for a combo, pulled pork sandwich, and two sides:  $23.74

THE BI-ANNUAL TORONTO PURVEYOR'S STEAK TASTING

Posted by Josh

Every two years, there is a get together of serious steak tasters to see which of the better beef suppliers provides the best rib and sirloin steaks. This year, the group consisted of chef Mark Macewan, Josh Josephson, chef David Lee, Jimmy Molloy, chef Joe Bersani, Clayton Ruby, Todd Halpern and David Minucci, co-owner of L'Unita restaurant. All steaks were cooked rare by one chef (David Lee). Another individual cut the pieces and a third person plated the pieces in a certain order so that essentially, this tasting was done "blind". All steaks were referred to by number when scored. None knew the results, or which steak connected with what number, or score, except a fourth individual who was responsible for scoring after all steaks were scored.

These were the results for the best rib steaks: #1 Cumbraes, #2Healthy Butcher wagyu, #3 Macewan, #4 Top Meadow Farm, #5 The Butcher Shop, #6 Olliffe.

These were the results for the best sirloin steaks: #1 Cumbraes, #2 Macewan, #3 Olliffe and The Butcher Shop tied, #4 Whole Foods

The Stockyards Smokehouse and Larder restaurant review

Posted by Josh

This new bbq place is literally smoking! I went on Friday June 12th and had virtually everything on the menu and what I couldn't get, because it wasn't available, I went back and had the next day!

So what do they do really well?
The 6 hours smoked meat pastrami is very good, but is not as good as Caplanski's at its best. Their version of a BLT(called BAT) is made with deep fried green tomatoes, lemon aioli and smoked bacon, is novel and very good. The grilled burgers are good and arrive medium rare but this is not why you go to a smokehouse. There is even southern fried 1/2 chicken for which your wait 25 minutes. The chicken is marinated in buttermilk and is made with a very tasty buttermilk fresh herb batter which is perhaps the best fried chicken that I have tasted in Toronto, not overcooked, but again this is not why one goes to a smokehouse.
They also make a wonderful fennel and garlic scented porchetta sandwich made with the pork loin, belly and cracklings served on a ciabatta roll with a lovely garlic aoli.
There's also a very good smoked chicken and an interesting home made fennel sausage.....but what they really excel at is perhaps the best smoked pork ribs I have tasted in Toronto.

Go before the crowds start if you really like bbq!

Posted by Josh

The Stockyards Smokehouse and Larder
669 St. Clair Ave. West
Toronto
416-658-9666